Summer suit from Castangia 1850
This is a collaboration with SARTORIALE
Last December, I wrote an article about D’Avenza, I would like to continue and introduce you another brand that stands out by its own as the longest running tailoring house in Italy: Sartoria Castangia and a very interesting collection on the online store SARTORIALE.
The year was 1850 and the Savoy dynasty was still ruling over Sardinia and the city of Cagliari. It was where Giovanni Castangia opened his atelier and became the first person to open a tailoring house in Italy. The shop became famous in its hometown for the exquisite craftsmanship and the fabrics it offered, and it has received the Royal Warrant from the Savoy family, the shop was frequented by the Sardinia’s wealthy. With pride and needle, the Royal Warrant was embroidered on the Castangia label, it can still be found on current garments. The atelier became famous outside of Cagliari, first all over Italy, then worldwide. The orientation was clear, to deliver tailored garments where the main focus was the quality of the products. Giovanni was a great ambassador of his house and exhibited with great success on world fairs such as the Turin and the Paris Expo in the early 1900’s.
As Italy’s longest running tailoring house, Castangia still manufactures everything in their own workshop in Cagliari. Other than their own label, the company also produces garments under the Battistoni name and for Bergdorf Goodman’s hand-tailored collection Jay Kos, etc.
Today, the company is renowned worldwide, the distribution has essentially focuses on wholesale. The brand is already synonymous with elegance in United States and Russia with a prestigious circle of admirers. They have fitted and made suits to famous figures like Bill Clinton, Oliver Stone, Silvio Berlusconi and suits for Michael Douglas in Wall Street. They also supply tailored garments for the US golf team for the President’s Cup.
The firm is still owned by the Castangia family what ensures that the passion for creating only the finest garments have continued for decades. The house of Castangia is run by Alberto Griletti, who belongs to the sixth generation of the family.
PART TWO – CASTANGIA AT SARTORIALE
The name Sartoriale comes from the Italian word tailor or tailoring house and the name already gives us a good hint what to except from the company. Everything started in 2000 when Gabor Halmos launched the online store SARTORIALE. The idea was to become a place where connoisseurs were able to source their used bespoke pieces, creating the opportunity for everyone to acquire authentic bespoke garments for a bargain price. It did not take long before Gabor introduced the finest Italian ready to wear tailoring houses such as Cesare Attolini, Chiaia Napoli, Kiton, Rubinacci, Brioni, Sartoria Partenopea and Isaia.
To celebrate the launch of a Castangia collection consisting of suits and sport coats including some special pieces from the Castangia Platinum Collection and garments made for the President’s cup golf tournament. SARTORIALE offered me to take a closer look at a sand colored cotton suit. We are talking about a fully canvassed, 100% cotton suit with Castangia’s iconic shoulder, which is slightly more structured than the shoulder styles favored in Napoli. It has a two-button configuration with hand-rolled lapels and loads of hand-stitching throughout the suit. What really makes it a summer garment: it is lightweight, but it drapes very well. You can truly feel and see that this is a well-made suit.
Something that I have started to prefer lately is trousers with a high waist and wider silhouette. And guess what? Luck is on my side as the trousers from the Castangia suit has both. The wider silhouette continues throughout the suit and it makes for a comfortable fit. Still flattering with it’s slightly suppressed waist. It reminds me of my Brioni sport coat more than any of my Neapolitan jackets. To be honest, it is actually difficult to spot the house style, so I took the opportunity to start digging and found some interesting facts. Traditionally, a tailoring house in Naples have their typical Neapolitan style, where a different tailor house in Rome can be identified by theirs. The house of Castangia is not defined by its region as Sardinia does not come from the same tailoring tradition as other places in Italy. This has created a unique style based upon the origin of the different tailors that contributed with their skills, styles and patterns.
So that does mean that I’m wearing a suit which silhouette, and aesthetics are inspired from the tailoring schools of Naples, Rome, Milan and even Venice. And even that this specific suit does not offer handmade buttonholes, it still belongs to one of the finest suits that I have been able to find in ready to wear clothing.
Earlier this year, I was able to get a hold of a Battistoni jacket, a label that is produced in the exact same workshop as the main Castangia collection. I have carefully inspected the jacket by cutting it in half, inspecting the canvas, lapels, stitching and other details. With that in mind, I would rank Castangia in the same category as Cesare Attolini, Kiton, Brioni and other top-quality tailoring houses that produce off-the-rack.
Make sure that you take a look at the unique selection of Castangia pieces from SARTORIALE. The selection is limited and there is a chance that many of these items will never be seen again.