A blazer may feel too formal for some, but there are other alternatives to begin with. A knitted blazer is the perfect combination of formality and sportswear. It is leisure, comfortable and easier to wear with everything you throw at it such as a pair of jeans or chinos. Today’s collage flirt with the early days of summer, where you will be able to wear your knitted blazer with the classic and elegant panama hat and a pair of tassel loafers.
I normally wear suits and sport coats everyday, but during the weekends I always like to bring out my casual part of my wardrobe. One of my favorite knitwear pieces for the season is the belted cardigan. Wear it with a t-shirt, a pair of raw denims, classic chelsea boots and an cozy scarf to keep you warm.
I wrote a post about the customer clothier Marcus Malmborg earlier this fall and today it is time for the second part. For today’s post, we will look at the process behind ordering an Eidos made to measure suit through Marcus Malmborg. We will talk about fabrics, details, prices and much more.
In the first post about Marcus Malmborg, we talked about the history and the vision behind his self-titled company. As mentioned in the first article, I decided to order an Eidos made to measure suit through Marcus and today it is finally time to take a closer look at it. We will focus on the process to create an unique made to measure suit and the end result.
Marcus is actually the only person, except Eidos themselves, that have the opportunity to offer made to measure garments from the brand. It makes me proud to have such a personal clothier as Marcus to offer this service locally here in Stockholm. This adds even a more unique experience than other made to measure services are able to offer, where many retailers shares the same manufacturers but under different labels.
Eidos have chosen to use a simplified process for the made to measure service. Let us start with jackets where we have two different options to choose from. Here we are able to find two different models, the so called Ciro and Tenero. The Ciro is my personal favorite and probably the model that people recognize the most when someone mentions Eidos due to it characteristic details. This particular model features wider lapels measuring generous 10.5 cm and open quarters that takes inspiration from the Florentine tailoring.
If we instead look at the Tenero model, we are able to find slightly narrower lapels measuring 9.5 cm, a higher button stance and a silhouette that does not stand out as much as the Ciro. Both models features a full canvas construction, which means that the canvas covers the whole front and not only the upper part as half canvas do.
The trousers follows the same pattern and features two different choices, Lorenzo and Sal. The difference between these trousers are that the Lorenzo features double pleats, where the Sal trouser instead is flat-fronted. Both trousers are available in two waist heights, either the normal or high waisted. I would say that the normal waisted trousers would be the option that reminds what most people are used to wear or see in the stores. The high waisted option is at the other hand something that are you not able to find in any ready to wear trousers. These trousers features a waist height that sits at your bellow button, which is a lot higher compared to what most people are used to.
When it comes to details for the suiting, there are a small selection of choices such as choosing buttons, braces buttons, and what kind and type of lining. Eidos will not win in terms of the selection of details, but I believe that too many choices could make it even harder for the normal customer. In this case, I believe Eidos have chosen the right path with a smaller selection of details to choose from.
I decided to order a navy suit that would be wearable both for spring, summer and early fall. My choice fell on a navy hounds tooth pattern in a so called tropical wool fabric. This type of fabric is without any doubt one of the most usable fabrics for warmer climates when temperatures are reaching over 20 Celsius. It drapes great and wrinkles very little due to the structure in the fabric, which aslo makes this the ultimate travel companion.
Eidos starts at 14 000 SEK for the suits and coats, 11 000 SEK for jackets and 3500 SEK for trousers. Normally, a brand or tailor offers a starting price which most often only include a smaller selection of basic fabrics. What is unique with Eidos is that nearly 80% of the fabrics are included in the starting prices for the garments, which will make it easier for new customers to know what the end price will end up at.
As I’m already a big fan of Eidos, and have owned a few Ciro and Lorzeno jackets (previous model of Ciro) in my days, I picked the Ciro alternative for the jacket. I went for the Lorenzo trousers as I’m more comfortable to wear high waisted trousers nowadays. Due to my length at 1.87 m and longer legs, I really feel like high waisted trousers adds a great balance to my silhouette.
Last but not least, I picked a half lined jacket and brown Corozo buttons as a final touch to be able to wear it with most of the garments in the wardrobe. When all the choices are finished, a order is placed to Eidos factory in Italy. The delivery time is normally 6-8 weeks, and in my case I ordered the suit late in February and received the suit in the beginning of May, which means exactly as promised.
A first fitting was done to be able to see if any smaller adjustments were needed, and for my suit we choose to take adjust the back just a bit more and repressed the trousers for a more precise fit. The adjustments are made by one of the best tailors in Stockholm just to make sure that all the adjustments and details will be same or better than original.
And the result? Absolutely brilliant and this will without any doubt be an all time favorite in my wardrobe. The fit for both the jacket and trousers have a fuller silhouette, which adds up to a more balanced outfit in my opinion. This was something that I asked Marcus about during our first meeting when I tried out different sizes and he succeeded perfectly to deliver my vision.
To be able to find a tailor, person or custom clothier that can understand your vision, with the combination of one of your favorite brands, is in my eyes an unbeatable combination. I will for sure pay a visit to Marcus again, either to buy something from the ready to wear collection, or place another order for new a suit.. or maybe a coat for the winter?
Today, I would like to introduce you to custom clothier Marcus Malmborg, a person that have brought exclusive and unique brands to Stockholm such as Eidos Napoli and Stoffa. Who is Marcus Malmborg and what makes his business so unique? That is exactly what we will take a closer look at today.
Let me introduce you to Marcus Malmborg, a custom clothier, located in the central parts of Stockholm. We are able to find Marcus at the 5th floor on Strandvägen 7A, a location which delivers one of the most breathtaking views in Stockholm. The first thing that hits you when you enter the first floor in the building is the old and characteristic architecture. Afterwards, an elevator ride awaits to the 5th floor where you will reach the final destination, the showroom. The showroom, located on the highest floor, will give you a glimpse of what service you can expect from Marcus. With a beautiful view over the harbor of Stockholm, Marcus will offer a refreshment, a drink, or whatever you would like to drink. Then sit down, enjoy your drink or cup of coffee and let the fun begin, either trying ready to wear clothing or looking through the latest fabric swatches for Eidos Napoli’s exclusive made to measure service.
For Marcus, it is very important that not everything circuits about the garments, but instead about the whole experience. The location of the showroom is not intended as a show-off, but instead a statement to show that the Marcus only wants to offer his clients the best possible service. Some call him a custom clothier, other an agent, personal shopper and some a friend. What I’m sure of is that Marcus devote all his awaken time to this and with years of experience within fashion and tailored garments, he finally took the step to open up the showroom on Strandvägen 7A in 2015.
Marcus carries four different brands at his showroom which includes Stoffa, Christian Kimber, AW Bauer and Eidos. Stoffa is founded by Agyesh Madan with focus on handmade accessories and made to measure trousers and jackets. The brand are most famous for their rollable rabbit and beaver hats in various of colors, but what makes this brand unique is the opportunity to order a made to measure jackets and trousers. Here we are able to find different types of jackets, such as the classic field jacket and an asymmetric rain coat. The measurements are taken during one of Stoffa’s trunk shows that are hosted every fifth week at Marcus showroom.
Then we have Christian Kimber, a humble friend and designer located in Melbourne, Australia. I did an article about Christian in 2014 which I recommend reading as it describes his whole story from his birthplace in England, to his studies in London and his final success of creating his self-titled brand. Do not forget to look into his latest collection which I took a closer look at last week.
And if Stoffa and Christian Kimber were not enough, Marcus has also created an exclusive collaboration with the local based bespoke tailor AW Bauer. Thanks to this collaboration, Marcus are able to offer made to measure shirts in the highest possible quality, and also a larger fabric assortment for the made to measure service for Eidos Napoli,
Last but not least we have Eidos Napoli, the brand that everyone are talking about. I have talked about Eidos and the mastermind behind this brand, Antonio Ciongoli, a couple of times on the blog. I looked at their latest collection, interviewed Antonio and described why he is one of my style icons. To get the full story about Eidos and Antonio, I highly recommend to read the posts as you will get an better understanding of his creativity and style.
Due to my interests in the brand, I decided that I wanted to try to order a made to measure suit through Marcus and placed an order earlier this spring. I have now had the whole summer to be able to test it in the field, both during my travels and at home in Stockholm. I can assure you that this is one of the best suits that I have ever worn. More of that in the next article that will be posted in the upcoming weeks.
Summer is closing in and today we will focus on one of my new favorite colors for summer, chocolate brown. I will also have the opportunity to present my newest project from Sartoria Francesco Guida in the near future. A suit in a chocolate brown lightweight wool, perfect for summer, and Pitti Uomo.
In Sweden we are officially about to turn over to spring, but you still have to wear your coat for another week or two. What I do like about this midseason period is that you are able to wear just a sport coat and a turtleneck. Whatever you do, do not forget the umbrella as it has a tendency to rain a lot in March.
Normally I do not like jackets with too bold colors or patterns, but for today we will do an exception. The key to be able to wear a jacket with a busy pattern is to combine it with other garments that are the opposite. I have chosen a jacket with a windowpane pattern that consists of the color combination blue, brown and white. At first sight these may look like an odd combination, but all the three colors belongs to the easiest ones to combine. If the cream colored trousers are too much for some of you, try to combine the jacket with a pair of brown or blue trousers instead.
The Chukka boots are probably one of the most versatile shoe a man can have in his wardrobe. It can more than less be used all year round, depending on the material and type of sole. My favorite is the sturdier suede chukka with a rubber sole as it can be used both for the fall, winter and spring season here in Sweden. It can stand both against snow and rain, and the suede will develop a greater patina the more you use the shoes. A personal favorite among all chukkas are the one that Christian Kimber did in collaboration with Eidos Napoli for last fall and winter collection.
Add the discount code passportsale on Christian Kimber’s website to receive 40% of your order (only valid for the Passport collection).
It is high time that we put the winter collections behind us and focus on the upcoming spring and summer collections. First out in our coverage is Eidos, an all time favorite ever since they started their journey three years ago.
We already looked closer at Eidos SS16 collection in July last year, just after that they had their second show at New York Fashion Week. That article showed a different angel on the collection and focused more on the models and garments. This article can be found here for those who have missed it.
Today we will instead take a deeper look at the recently released story lookbook. This is where Creative Director Antonio Ciongoli tries to tell us the story behind the collection, placing the models and clothing in its rightful and beautiful environments. For every new season Antonio tries to focus and get inspiration from a place and person. This time the collection is named La Casetta in Sabbia, which means the little house in the sand which you clearly can relate to all the light textures and fabrics in the collection. The inspiration behind the person comes from the businessman and CEO of Marni, Giovanni Castiglioni, that always is dressed in the perfect tailored suit every day.
Antonio succeeds once again putting together a breathtaking collection, with casual and tailored clothing combined in a way that few masters. I would personally say that the focus has turned to sportswear and casual clothing, but still having the right amount of tailored clothing in the collection.
The full lookbook can be found on Eidos website here, I highly recommend taking a look at it to be able to see the full story behind the collection.
Last week we took a closer look at my favorite suits on the ongoing winter sale. Today it is time for the next part where I will pick my ten favorite jackets from different online shops.
The first part where I posted my favorites suits from the sale can be found here. The sale has been ongoing for a while so these products that I will share will not last for long, so do not wait too long to buy them if you find something interesting.