After a long week at work, wearing your business suit in the office, a leisure inspired outfit could be the trick to make your weekend even better. Tailored clothing in all honor, but leisurewear is the way to go during the weekend in my opinion. So go ahead and hang off your suit on the hangar, and bring fourth the classic leather jacket.
April is finally here and spring is still going strong with higher temperatures here in Stockholm. What I like about spring is the use of lighter shades of brown for your outfits. So for today, I would like to present a collage compiled with different shades of brown.
Jacket – Oscar Jacboson, Shirt – Drake’s, Pocket square – Paul Smith, Sunglasses – Orlebar Brown, Trousers – Incotex, Shoes – Crockett & Jones
For today’s post, I wanted to quickly talk about the grey suit. Let’s face it, the navy suit will always be hard to beat due to its versatility. The grey suit is great candidate for the second place, just behind the versatility of its navy companion. The reason behind this is simple as the nature of the color will make it easy to match and combine with the full color spectrum. Use the subtle color of the grey suit as a foundation, and then add accessories in either tone in tones, earthy or why not some sparkling color? To help you out, I have added a few favorites from the upcoming season in different price ranges.
Spring is finally here and the temperature is reaching the level when you are able to throw off the coat. Instead, you are able to wear a suit on its own to embrace the weather, and instead focus on colorful and lightweight accessories. Today, I choose a navy suit from Oscar Jacobson as the foundation in the outfit, combined it with a casual oxford shirt from Morris and a pair of suede monk straps from Santoni. With the addition of the lightweight regimental grenadine tie from Eton, a colorful and playful pocket square from Drake’s, it becomes a excellent outfit for spring. Do not forget a pair of sunglasses to protect your from the sun, in this case a pair of classic rounded Ray-Ban’s.
Today, I have the honor to finally present the second and last part of my bespoke trousers through Robin Pettersson Tailor. We will look at the end result of the garment and also what changes Robin Pettersson as a company have done since the last article in late 2015.
First of all, I want to clarify a few reasons behind the delay of this article. The third fitting for the trousers was initiated in the beginning of January 2016, and some small adjustments were needed to the achieve the end result that me and Robin Pettersson were after. Due to various of trips from both ends and a long time of sickness, a fourth fitting was not achieved until late in spring 2016. With that in mind, both me and Robin took the decision to postpone this article until late 2016 instead of publishing it in the middle of the summer. As many of you are hopefully aware of, this blog is only a hobby of mine and sometimes there are not enough of free time to spend on it and prioritization are needed elsewhere.
With that said, I would like us to change focus to what changes Robin Pettersson Tailor have been ongoing the last year. Due to an increased workload, Robin started a collaboration with the English trouser maker William Baxter that are putting together the components of the trousers. Robin is still responsible for the fitting sessions and are also the one who cuts the unique pattern for the customers.
Robin Petterson is now officially a trainee in the art of sewing, which means that he is skilled enough to take full prices for his bespoke garments. Robin is normally only accepting new orders for trousers, but in some cases he is also able to craft full bespoke jackets or suits depending on the current workload. The prices for Robin’s own bespoke garments are from now on in line with B&Tailors bespoke garments, starting at 25 000 SEK for suits, 21 000 SEK for jackets and 4500 SEK for trousers. All alternatives includes a fine selection of fabrics, but the final prices could vary depending on your choice of fabric.
Another interesting news is that Robin has now also been approved by 100hands and are now offering their bespoke shirts in his atelier and during his trunk shows. 100hands is a shirt company that offers completely handmade shirts and are known for their manufacturing of one of the finest shirts in the world. To have the opportunity to order one of these shirts in any of Robin’s trunk shows in Europe, and especially in his atelier in Gothenburg, is something unique and another milestone for his career.
The verdict and final result
After a long intro of the article, let us instead look at the final result of my bespoke trousers from Robin. Already during my first fitting, I was very impressed about the way of the fit and comfort of the trousers. For the final result, I would say that this feeling have grown into something that is even better than the first experience. Let us look at the key components of the trousers and what makes me say that these belongs to one of the best fitting trousers in my wardrobe.
The result is in my opinion what bespoke is really about. The first thing that strikes you is the comfort level of the trousers, they are just like a pair of pajamas slacks. Whenever you move, you can feel that they are cut exactly after your body shape as the fabric neither feels to tight or feels baggy.
The only change I would like to do for my next pair of bespoke trousers from Robin Pettersson is to widen the end of the trousers and just lenghten them a tiny bit to compensate the change. These changes are personal changes and do not impact what great trousers Robin has created in the end. This is real bespoke, and made in Sweden.
The bomber jacket has received an enormous popularity the last couple of years and there are various of alternatives to choose from in stores and online. Many brands takes inspiration from the original design to create something own and unique, and one of these are the English based Private White V.C. Thanks the versatility of the bomber jacket, it can almost be worn with everything that you are able to find in your wardrobe. Wear it with a pair of denims, or why not a pair of flannel trousers? The choices are many, so I created an inspiration collage to make it easier for everyone out there.
Today, I would like to introduce you to a different kind of online store. With focus on craftsmanship and the artisans behind every unique product, the online store Jeeves is an online store for those who value authenticity in design, materials and production. We are able to find handmade shoes in the finest quality, and accessories to accompany you along the way.
Allow me to introduce Tom Brone, a guy that recently graduated in finance and menswear enthusiast from Brugels in the north western Brussels. Tom always had a passion for beautiful things and in particular shoes and accessories, and that is where the journey began. He started to learn more about the craftsmanship and secrets behind the creation of shoes and accessories.
The idea behind the store Jeeves began for Tom by reading and listening on different members in forums such as Styleforum (Jeeves has an affiliate thread on Styleforum here). With numerous of read posts and articles about different types of leather, construction methods and fabrics, Tom started the idea to sell an unique set of shoes and accessories online. He went to different trade shows and leather fairs to be able to get the opportunity to discuss topics and to find the right persons and suppliers. Since the start, it has always been important to find the right persons for each product. The vision was to create classic and timeless products, and Tom only wanted to work with smaller workshops that shared his idea.
Tom was able to create a close relationship with the well known shoe maker Vass Shoes from Budapest, which naturally became the first line of products for the store.
Vass Shoes was founded in the early 1970’s in Budapest and have went through a lot changes since then, but the passion and attention to details have always remained. Vass only creates shoes with leather from the finest tanneries in the world and the shoes are completely made by hand in the workshop in Budapest. Old techniques are only used and Vass are one of the few brands in the world who are still crafting the whole shoe by hand. Jeeves offers both ready to wear shoes from Vass and made to order shoes that can be ordered here.
During his travels in Budapest, he also met a craftsman and his team with an obsession of creating the the best possible belts from scratch. Some small changes were introduced to the manufacturing and it was decided that only full grain leather should be used for the belts. The most common way is that manufacturers uses lower quality leather for the lining and synthetics such as polyester for the interlining to save on the material costs. The full grain leather will however be more flexible and last longer.
With Vass Shoes in the lineup, Tom naturally continued to expand the collection with the Italian socks specialist Bresciani and their famous socks in cotton, wool and cashmere. With a combination of long experience in the Italian socks industry and advanced machines, Bresciani creates one of the finest socks available to date. The socks features a hand-linked toes and over 13 hand controlled station to be able to provide the highest possible quality.
To provide a full range for the shoes lover, a few accessories are also added from the Abbeyhorn in England. Since 1749, Abbeyhorn have provided horn buttons and accessories to companies all of the world. With the beautiful finish and durability of horn, the accessories will last for decades.
Jeeves is a young and interesting store that have created a reputation among the style forums on the internet. They belong to one of the few official retailers in the world that provides ready to wear and made to order shoes from Vass. That if something says a lot about the online store Jeeves.
Some days, it is just cold and the rain is falling outside. Having the proper clothing during these days, which includes a serious raincoat and umbrella will make your day a lot better. If you are unsure about which raincoat to get, the trench coat will always be a true wardrobe classic.
Spring is slowly showing its true color and the spring and summer look books have recently arrived. One of the latest and most interesting look books to be seen is the one from Stockholm based Saman Amel where they focus on the brands core concept.
With Petter Berg behind the camera, the duo Saman Amel and Dag Granath created the lookbook Katalog that shows us the ateliers most classic tailored concepts. It features two of their most classic lines, the more affordable Toscana and the luxurious Napoli line.
The inspiration behind the look book comes from the old school post order catalogs (katalog in Swedish). These post order catalogs where used in the past to buy garments via a phone call or by sending a letter. The idea of being forced to either make a phone call or posting a letter may sound ridiculous today, but we should never forget that this was the foundation of today’s online industry. With this in mind, Saman Amel took inspiration from the old catalogs to show an generic look of the company, showing its core between formal and casual clothing.
Let’s face it, blue is the most forgiving and easiest color to match. It can be matched with the full color palette, but what has been on the table for a while is the monochrome way of styling. For today’s inspiration collage, I would like to show how to combine this in an elegant and usable way.