Christmas is here and it’s time for a well deserved vacation to meet family, eat good food and handing out Christmas gifts. What should you wear for this occasion? I’ve picked a bit more casual outfit for today’s inspiration and the colors reminds me of Christmas Eve with a base in burgundy and green. Go for something easy and comfortable for today, be inspired by the white snow and the colors from the Christmas tree. At the same time I would also like to wish everyone out there a merry Christmas.
Made to measure services in Sweden have been growing rapidly the last years, from being something expensive and complicated to having a number of brands out there offering it for the same prices as ready to wear clothing. Made to measure or commonly known as MTM is sewn from a standard size base pattern and offers a lot of benefits compared to the ready to wear clothing, one of these is that the garment can be sewn to fit each person individually. Another one is that you have the possibility to choose a fabric of your choice and this is often offered in hundreds of different fabric books from suppliers all over the world. With the increasing popularity of this I had the opportunity a while ago to try out one of them, a company named Pelote.
In 1999 Daniel Eriksson founded Pelote to challenge stores who sold mass produced clothing and instead offering customers with better fitted garments, premium quality fabrics and personal details. Specialized in made to measure for shirts, jackets and suits they have made a name for them self in the southern parts in Sweden and more specific in the third largest capital Malmo which is where they also have their store.
The name Pelote actually comes from the worlds fastest ball sport, basque pelota. The ball that’s been used in the game is handmade one at a time and the basket which the players use to throw away the ball in is made to fit the player individually. That’s what we are after, a product made entirely for you and unique in it’s own way. – Daniel Eriksson
Coats, jackets and suits will be measured in store by Daniel or Gustav themselves. The made to measure process is simple and straightforward and follows the industry standard nearly straight off. Drop in is available but choosing a fabric and the right details can be a time consuming process and therefor If you interested to do one of these garments I recommend to book an appointment. Coats, jackets and suits have a lot of different options to choose from. One of the most important parts of these garments is the construction and Pelote offers both half canvas that’s been machine stitched and a completely unconstructed silhouette for the suits and jackets. When the construction is selected it’s time for the find a fabric of your choice among mills such as Vitale Barberis Canonico, Loro Piano and Holland & Sherry. After this is all about details with a great selection of different lapels, buttons, monogram, pockets, color lining and much more (there’s to many options to mention here). What impressed me is that Pelote do stay true to their vision about offering quality materials such as real horsehair for the lapels, quality buttons such as horn, corozo and mother of pearl and bemberg cupro for the linings. Accessories is also offered to complement the tailoring clothing with 3-folded ties in seasonal fabrics, cuffs in everything from mother of pearl to tiger’s eye and pocket squares in silk.
I’ve done two shirts from Pelote and had contact with Gustav a couple of times, both in store and nowadays over phone and email. The first shirt was done last summer and is holding up very well nearly two years later and therefor I decided earlier this summer to do a second shirt. The options for the shirts will be more then enough for most of the customers, you can choose from a variety of different collars, everything from full cutaway to a classic button down. Other options that is offered is for example monogram of your choice and different cuffs. I choose a blue white pinstripe 120/2 fabric from Thomas Mason and the high thread count made the shirt more luxurious but less resistant to wrinkles. My other choices were a soft full cutaway collar and cuffs to make the shirt a bit more casual, thick mother of pearl buttons and handsewn buttons. After some adjustments from the first shirt measurements it went out very good, a bit on modern and slim side though. This is something you will have to deal with when it comes to made to measure garments, it’s hard to get it to 100% or to say it’s nearly impossible. But you can get close to perfect results but it takes time and according to my own experience it will probably take two or three shirts to get the measurements spot on.
The flannel trouser, one of most versatile trouser for the fall and winter season. The fabric made its entry already in the early 16th century and has been used every since by both men and women. Flannel was originally made from carded wool or worsted yarn, but today it’s normally made from either wool, cotton och synthetic fibre. It can be brushed or remain unbrushed depending which character and texture you want to add to the fabric itself. If the flannel is brushed it creates an extra softness to the fabric that something can be close to cashmere in terms of softness.
The flannel trouser should be one core component in every man’s fall and winter wardrobe. They match almost anything out there, it doesn’t matter if you match it with navy, grey, brown, beige or even green. It’s a versatile trouser that could be worn in both casual occasions with a shirt in the countryside and as well with a sport coat for a more formal look in the city. The fabric adds a interesting texture to your outfit, instead of wearing a pair of plain worsted wool trousers, the flannel adds a depth and texture with its brushed quality. Flannels are often durable when taken care of in the right way and resists stains very well compared to other fabrics and best of all, they are very comfortable. Here’s my favourite five from for this winter, match them with a pair of snuff suede chukkas and you will be ready for everything.
One of the biggest trends in tailored clothing lately has been the the plaid pattern. Some may think that plaid is all about kilt and that’s partly true but in this case we’re talking about three individual fabric patterns. We’re talking about the windowpane, glen plaid and prince of wales patterns. Instead of having a plain pattern that could make a sport coat, jacket or suit flat these patterns creates a interesting depth of these garments, it will look more alive. Today we focus on the plaid pattern and how to match this with quality products from the basic wardrobe.
The double breasted jacket has been one of the biggest and fast growing trends lately. These jackets were particular popular from the mid 1930s until late 1950s, came back in the mid 1980s to the mid 1990s and becoming popular once again. Today the double breasted is on it way back on the market but with a younger, slimmer and more modern cut. This have been growing rapidly the last couple of years and have been seen at all kind of different brands, everything from high street fashion brands such as Prada to the Italian casual expert Boglioli. Today you will no longer be known as a old school mobster from the 1980s but instead as a person who enjoy fashion and tailoring when wearing a double breasted jacket.
The double breasted jacket from older days can be characterized by a heavier silhouette, with more loose drape, very wide lapels and longer lengths. That particular fashion slowly disappeared in the late 1990s but will still look good depending who wears it and how’s it tailored and known as the more classic cut. The last couple of seasons we have seen a completely different silhouette, the modern double breasted jacket has a slimmer silhouette with higher armholes, trimmer sleeves, natural shoulders and with a shorter length. This means that the formerly formal double breasted jacket has been developed to a jacket that could be worn in nearly any occasion. Down below are my five favorite picks from the season that will look as good with a pair of flannel trousers as with a pair of jeans.
I can fully agree that I don’t wear the color black too often. Why I don’t do that is because I don’t feel comfortable wearing it. I personally like dark navy much more instead because its increased richness in color and combinations that I offer compared to black. But this doesn’t mean that black isn’t a color that couldn’t look good and for my taste it’s about using it in the right way and for the right occasion. Today, my inspiration mainly comes from the legendary movies of Agent 007, James Bond. A classic grey herringbone suit combined with a crisp white cotton shirt, black grenadine tie, white linen pocket square and a pair of handmade black Oxfords in the finest quality will make this the perfect outfit for dinner, a drink in the bar and will even suit perfectly for New Year’s Eve. And to complete the outfit I added the Rolex Submariner just to get a touch of Agent 007.
My name is Bond, James Bond.
Founded in 1711, Gieves & Hawkes is one of the oldest bespoke tailoring companies in the world and located on the venerable No. 1 Savile Row. Today the company is still one of the strongest tailoring houses on Savile Row and offers both their world famous bespoke service but also a well tailored ready to wear collection. For this autumn and winter Gives & Hawkes shot their campaign in the eastern Highlands of Scotland with magnificence landscapes that raises a already elegant collection to another level.
Shot by Eddie Wrey in and around the 15th century Eilean Donan castle with Havy Newton-Hayden and Matthew Holt sets a high standard from the start. The collection is nothing short of superb and top class in a textural variation and with the typical British silhouette. In terms of fabric we can see a lot of English tweeds, heavy wools and flannels with rich shades of brown, green and brown that combines beautifully with each other. The brand does not forget their British heritage and features this in the collection with details such as broad and heavily-paddad shoulders and wide lapels. The ongoing trends for this season with textured coats and double breasted suits makes a strong appearance through the collection but still with the finesse and style of the brand. This will be the third collection for the former Brioni employee, Jason Basmajian and nowadays Creative Director of Gives & Hawkes and he did a great job once again offering a good balance of quality tailoring for the classic and the contemporary gentleman.
We loved the scale and tones of the landscape in Scotland. There was something very masculine and romantic about the tough and remote highland location. The textures of the collection – urban tweeds, rich Donegals and grey flannel – almost formed part of the landscape as the shoot progressed – Jason Basmajian Creative Director of Gieves & Hawkes
Winter is coming and many thinks that only dark colors will suit this time of year but I want to show that brighter colors works if put together in the right way. That’s right, white, beige, light grey and other brighter colors works wonderful this time of year, a great example of this if you go to the southern Italy and look how they dress during the winter season. The main color in this outfit is beige in different shades and textures. First off we have the beige flannel trousers in a midweight flannel that will look beautiful combined with a moss-green jacket. Top this with a bright blue shirt with a soft collar, handmade glencheck tie, pair of chukka boots in a brown suede and a pocket square from Christian Kimber which picks up just the right shades from the other garments. Be sure to not forget the watch, in this case one of my favorites Submariners with the tropical dial.
Melbourne in Australia is often rated as one of the world’s most livable cities. It’s a city with a well developed culinary culture, with a interesting mix of different people from all around the world, art in various forms, its food and restaurants and not at least its style. One of the most interesting designer and store in Melbourne is Christian Kimber Footwear, owned by the young gentlemen Christian Kimber.
Christian Kimber, born and bred in the south east region of England, East Sussex and just outside the town Brighton. He always had an interested in menswear and a important influence for this was his father who wears a traditional and classic outfits and often in forms of navy suits, white shirts and loafers. Thanks to studying his fathers style he found out early his career that it wasn’t just about the clothing itself, it was how you wore it as a person and the passion behind it. Christian spent the most of his time in London and working with menswear including retailing, styling and PR. At his time in London he was educated in tailoring at the venerable Savile Row but eventually ended up at in a footwear store on Clifford Street and it’s was here his journey began for real. At this time he began to sketch from what he learned from his fathers passion and ended up designing his own shoes.
In 2011 Christian and his girlfriend moved to Melbourne and it was here when the plan was set into motion and he founded Christian Kimber Fine Footwear. Two years later he released the brand online that features handmade shoes and accessories. The shoe collection includes two different styles, the chukka boot and loafer. All shoes are made in various colors of Spanish suede and the colors for the shoes is inspired by different teas around the world. Just to mention a few of them we have the Chai originally a spice from India who represent a brownish color, Oolong from China which stands for green and Rooibos a herb from South Africa that’s red. Along with this playful and inspiring names most of the shoes also features two different of shades in some way, it could be a different color on the upper suede or on the tassel which makes these something that stands out from other brands. It’s a shoe to be worn more casually and works as good with a casual summer suit in cotton or a pair of jeans. The collection is handmade in Spain meaning various steps of handwork including good year welted soles for every single shoe and also offering made to order for those who wants a special size or color.
In the other end we have the accessories. Here we have both bracelets, shoe brushes and pocket squares. The bracelets is a limited edition collaboration with Ettika that’s is handmade in Los Angeles overseas in the United States featuring a metal and gemstone design. And then we have the shoes brushes and pocket squares which is crafted by hand Cheshire, England. The shoes brushes is made by oxhorn and beechwood with natural bristles which all are from renewable resources. These brushes is shaped by hand and it means that every brush will be unique just for you which is one of many benefits that handmade item will contribute to. Next up we have pocket squares which have all the details you need, a wool silk mix, hand-rolled edges and the perfect sizing at 45 x 45 cm that means that the pocket square will not fall out as easy. At this time Christian has been able to create four different pocket square which inspiration comes from various trips around the world. We have the Florentine Abstract inspired from Christian’s trip to Florence the summer of 2012 where he draw the bell tower wall of Giotto’s Campanile. Another one is called Melbourne Abstract, a design inspired by Federation Square and it’s reflection of the Yarra River in Melbourne. Third up the London Abstract which originate from by The Gherkin in London and something that he saw everyday when he lived in the eastern part of the city. From a business trip earlier this year in Hong Kong the Hong Hong Abstract was born, inspired by the Bank of China building when crossing from Kowloon to Hong Kong. And last we have the newest addition from his latest trip to Hanoi, inspired by the green colored french windows of Sofitel Legend Metropole Hotel in Hanoi.
Christian Kimber is something to look out for in the future with his fantastic designed pockets squared and colorful shoe collection. I have not had the opportunity yet to try Christian’s footwear but I’m very found of his pocket squares and is probably the only ones I need to have in my wardrobe to be honest because of the colors and versatility. It was a pleasure to finally meet Christian Kimber in person at Pitti Uomo last summer and I think he’s on to something big here and don’t forget to stay tuned for his new sneaker collection that will be live anytime now.
I’m not a trained designer – just very passionate and know what I like – Christian Kimber
Corneliani is one Italy’s oldest menswear companies and have been in business since 1958 and is still producing one of the finest quality suits to date. With nearly 1500 boutiques around the world Corneliani is known to be one of the largest retailers in the business. The brand is still going strong with it’s ranging from crafted suits to their wide range of accessories such as shoes, ties and belts. It’s no surprise that they delivers a strong autumn and winter collection this year.
The brand offers four different lines, Corneliani, Corneliani ID, Trend/CC and Made to Measure. The mainline, Corneliani, is both about the traditional and contemporary look and for the person who seeks something that will last a decade in the wardrobe. The silhouette is a bit longer and the choice of fabrics is a bit more conservative compared to the other two alternatives. Corneliani ID have the same quality level as the main line but follows the latest fashion trends and is aimed for the more less formal purposes. Lastly we have the Trend/CC which is in the lower price category targeting the younger generation with an even more fashion forward look. Last but not least the brand also have a Made to Measure service in selected stores for those who know what they want but can’t find it in the ready to wear collection or having trouble finding the right size.
This autumn and winter collection is about the contemporary dandy with a minimalist design combined with solid shades of camel, blue and grey. More plain fabrics is offered as always but also a well chosen graphical patterns, leather jacket and accessories in the finest leather and the latest fashion designs in the Corneliani way.
The quality of the past in the present is the motto of Corneliani.
The classic pinstripe suit in a more traditional silhouette.
A cashmere sport coat could be one of the most luxurious, lightweight and best way keep you warm during autumn.
Layering with different shades of the same color.
The camel coat is a true classic and is easy to match with almost every color.
A leather jacket with a fur collar for a trendy look.
Technical outwear for the casual occasions.
A different take on the peacoat with a tartan pattern.
A maroon colored jacket in a interesting pattern that will match nicely with grey and blue.
Sportwear according to Corneliani, focus with layering and tone to tone once again.
A casual knitwear to wear underneath a jacket or just as it is.