What I really like about winter is the heavy knitwear, and using different garments for layers to stay warm during the colder days. A personal favorite is the turtleneck in a soft merino wool or cashmere, combined with a pair of old school flannel trousers and a sport coat with a heavier fabric.
Winter is here and what is more classic than rocking a navy pea coat? With its origin from the British navy, it is built to withstand the cold wind during the winter. Complete the naval look by adding a turtleneck and for layering during the colder days.
Last week, I had the opportunity to be invited to a different kind of dinner experience. Instead of the ordinary focus on only the food and beverages, the dinner took another direction and focused on the moment where no cellphones were allowed.
Sometimes you have to try something different to be able to experience new and exiting things. Normally, I do only write about menswear and fashion, but I would like to do an exception today and just make a small teaser about my experience.
The master chef Edin Dzemat created an unique three meal course with drinks from one of the best bartenders in the world, Josephine Sondlo. Maria Helander with her expertise within mindful eating and violinist Andreas Bernitt helped out during the evening to immerse the experience further…
I do not want to spoil this wonderful experience, but instead invite those who are interested in a culinary experience beyond what you are used to.
The pop-up resturant NUET will guest Paradiso again in Stockholm the 24/1 with two different seating’s, first between 17-19, and the other one 20-22. Tickets for one of these occurrences can be bought through Billetto here and will end up at 995 SEK for each person. That will include a three course meal, drinks for each meal and an experience that will not be forgotten.
Finding good value for your money is one of the main goals for my blog. The feeling of finding a product which reaches up to your vision and exceptions, but still does not make a huge hole in your wallet is unique. The Swedish shoe company Myrqvist is one of these companies and today I will the honor to tell more about them and a small review of one of their shoes.
Myrqvist first collection was launched last year in November after a successful campaign on Kickstarter. The company succeeded to pledge over 680.000 SEK for their campaign at the website, and became the most funded fashion campaign ever created from Sweden.
With the Kickstarter campaign behind them, the company were able to release a bigger collection in November which included not only the announced oxfords, but also Chelsea and Chukka boots.
The company saw that many of their customers went to the local shoemaker to glue an ordinary rubber sole to their shoes, which started ideas within the company how to us this opportunity of the customers behavior for a better shopping experience.
To adapt to the Nordic climate and saving costs for their customers, they successfully launched their most popular shoes with a so called tomir rubber sole earlier this year. A tomir sole is a sole that is made in a rubber material and sewn directly against the leather sole to create a more aesthetic rubber sole and protection against bad weather. A ordinary glued rubber sole is instead placed above the leather sole, creating a less neat and flat experience, but also risking that the rubber sole will loosen up in the front.
We experienced that a lot of our customers choose to leave their shoes at the local cobbler to glue a rubber sole above the leather. Therefore, we decided to offer an option that saves that cost and also giving the customer a more neat and clean impression – Founder of Myrvist, Sebastian Öhrn
Another high awaited expansion took place in the end of summer when the company released four new models on the same last, which includes three different loafers and the popular double monk strap. The loafer season may be reaching its last days in Sweden, but wearing a pair of loafers with wool socks for the fall is more right than ever. A pair of suede loafers will be a great companion to dress down a suit or to a pair of flannel trousers and jacket.
Earlier this spring, the company also opened up their warehouse in Johannesfredsvägen 5 in Bromma with a showroom where the customers are able to try the full collection and buy samples or discontinued models. The opening of the showroom and the new collection are proof of how the company continuously work to improve their services and products.
I took the opportunity a few weeks ago to visit the new showroom in Bromma to be able to try the different shoes from the collection. At the end, I fell for a black Adelaide called “Skytteholm” and decided to take them home to set if they will perform in real life.
As of today, I have now been able to give these pair of shoes a fair chance and wanted to share my inputs in this article.
Let us start off with the finishing of the shoes. They are made of a french calf leather which offers a good combination of price and quality ratio. I did not have any issues to polish them or to achieve a good spit-shine which is positive.
A closer look at the leather shows no flaws or usage of low quality hides, which is impressive when you think about the affordable price tag at 1999 SEK. The only thing that I’m able to find is that the brogue pattern is a bit uneven in some places, but it is also not the first time that I have seen this in this price range. This will probably improve in the further batches and models.
Except that, I’m very happy with the shoes and they belong to one of the most comfortable shoes that I have worn in this price range. For 1999 SEK, these shoes are a bargain and I can’t wait to see the next collection from Myrqvist.
During this fall, Brothers will head out on a tour in Sweden to increase men’s knowledge about fit and style. Brothers will be able to do this by offering a personal fit analysis and the possibility to bring your old garments to adjust them after your unique measurements. Every man should be able to find his perfect size, his so called “Size You“. And that is what the tour is about, to raise the question about the male body ideals and that everyone are unique.
All bodies are unique and the body of the Swedish man is no different. Some have muscular thighs, others have a round belly or the so called love handles. The variations of the male body are endless and the result of this is that most of men feel that they are unable to find their size in stores and online.
Earlier this spring, Brothers hosted a tour in Sweden to spread the word about their made to measure service, and also took the opportunity to collect data from a larger amount of men’s body measurements. Based on this information, the company have been able to create an avatar that represent the average Swedish man to show how he actually looks in real life and how it differs from the standardized size system.
Body ideals have gained more space in the public debate. We want to pay attention to the issue even from a male perspective. Our hope is to make people to feel more comfortable with their body and feel that their blazer, shirt or pants fit as they are supposed to. All bodies are unique, and Brothers wants to educate Swedish men during this upcoming tour and help them to find their “Size You“. – Magnus Hultin, Chief Designer at Brothers.
A lot of men feel insecure how a suit should fit and that is not something to be a shame of. Brothers will during this tour guide Swedish men to a more well-dressed look, customized after each and everyone’s unique style, size and body. Except the fit analysis that is offered during the tour, Brothers will also offers a selected amount of visitors to bring their own tailored garments, and to get it adjusted to their own”Size You“.
Usually only one small adjustment is needed, sometimes none at all is required and in some cases it is necessary to correct all the measurements. With the tour, Brothers wants to teach men more about their size and fit, but also offer the opportunity to customize and correct earlier purchases. In terms of sustainability, it is important to ensure that all clothes that are hanging in the wardrobes are actually used and that future purchases are perfectly fitted from the start, ” – Magnus Hultin, Chief Designer at Brothers
Brothers tour in Sweden will begin 30/9 and will during five weeks visit 15 different malls, stations and offices in Sweden (the full schedule can be found below). If you are not able to attend the tour, you can find your “Size You” online.
30/9-1/1/10 Mall of Scandinavia, Stockholm
2-3/10 Stockholms Central Station
4-6/10 Kista Galleria, Stockholm
7-8/10 Täby Centrum, Stockholm
11-12/10 Mästerhuset, Stockholm
14-15/10 Birsta City, Sundsvall
17-18/10 Erikslund, Västerås
19-20/10 Marieberg, Örebro
21-22/10 Allum, Gothenburg
23-24/10 Gothenburgs Central station
25-26/10 Kungsmässan, Kungsbacka
27-28/10 Nordstan, Göteborg
29-30/10 Emporia, Malmö
31/10-1/11 Malmös Central Station
2-3/11 Triangeln, Malmö
4-5/11 Ingelsta Shopping, Norrköping
A few weeks ago, we looked at the new and exciting made to measure company Blugiallo. In the first article, we took a closer look at the company’s history, vision and portfolio. For today’s article, we will continue the journey to see if Blugiallo lives up to their vision, a made to measure experience fit for the 21st century.
It was a cold day in February and I was on my way to Kommendörsgatan 15, the place where Blugiallo are holding their trunk shows in Stockholm. During my arrival, both Alexander and Daniel greeted me, showed me to a sofa and offered a coffee. The coffee was served, and I started straight away to look into the different fabric swatches to find what I was looking for.
After a short time of period, Daniel approached me and asked what kind of suit I was looking for. I explained that I had a vision to find either a blue tropical wool, or a beige or green cotton fabric. With that said, Daniel explained thoroughly about their different collections, Business 365, Four Season, Eminent and Spotlight. We quickly ended up with the Four Season collection due my vision about the season specific fabrics. After pointing out that I also wanted to have a full canvas construction, we landed on the Bordeaux, the more luxurious line in the Four Season collection. In the end, the choice fell on a green cotton from E.Thomas, weighing approximately 290 grams and a price tag at 7990 SEK.
With one of the most important and hardest choices done, we continued to the mirror to take the full body measurements for a suit. Two fitting garments were handed over to me, a jacket in size 50 and a pair of trousers in size 48. This is normally the correct sizes in ready to wear clothing for me, but due to my differential body measurements, I always end up choosing made to measure services to make my life easier.
The measurements were carefully taken, and we discussed some personal references such as the length and drape of the jacket and the width of the trousers. My preferences were taken very seriously, but as a part of my review, I also let Daniel and Alexander decide most of the measurements to be able to show the full experience of the service.
After that the measurements were taken, we naturally continued with the last and remaining details. We discussed different lapels and sizes, linings, pleated or flat fronted trousers and much more. I chose the largest notch lapels and a half-lined jacket, one single pleated trousers with 5 cm cuffs.
And that was it, my green cotton suit was measured and all the details were set and sent to production. Me and Daniel sat down afterwards and went through the delivery date and how their online based profile worked on Blugiallo (a more detailed view of the online profile is included in the the first article about Blugiallo).
The delivery took approximately 5 weeks so they held up to the promise, but I choose to meet Blugiallo once again in the end of March for a personal pickup and to make any adjustments if necessary. The day came and I picked up the suit and mentioned one or two things that maybe needed to be adjusted after wearing it for a while. Now, some people may think that adjustments are a bad thing, but it is very common that smaller adjustments are needed for your first made to measure garment. I would even say that it is common that you need to do a couple of garments before achieving the best possible balance and fit.
This article was written nearly 3 months after the delivery of the suit, and I have now had the time use it in real life for a good amount of time. And I must say that I’m very pleased with the result, and what a good job Daniel and Alexander did for taken the measurements. I can be a tricky customer, especially with my special requests of details such as high waisted trousers and lower button stance. I’m actually that pleased, so I decided to order a new suit in the end of May, where we did some smaller adjustments for the tilting of the arms, and also made the waist measurements a bit wider. In my eyes, a great result and a service that I have waited that is easy to to order made to measure garments online.
For today’s post I would like to push for the tie-less look for the ongoing summer season. Try to throw away the tie sometimes for a more relaxing and cooler look in the hot summer weather. When wearing an outfit without the tie, try focus on materials such as cotton or linen for the jacket, and sneakers in suede or leather for a even more leisure look.
Earlier this spring, we looked at the unique accessories collaboration between Blugiallo x R.Culturi. At a meeting with the founders of Blugiallo, I also had the opportunity to meet one of the founders behind R.Culturi, Anthony Brovchenko, that were visiting Stockholm to launch their new collection.
Hi Anthony, tell me about yourself and how you ended up working with accessories and fashion.
Hi Robin. Well the whole thing started as kind of an experiment really. I spent a few years living in Europe and my wife and I made it a point to travel as much as possible. Being the menswear enthusiast that I am, I always made sure to check out the shops in any city we visited and purchase some kind of accessory as a memento of the trip. After a while I realized that regardless of where I bought them, most of these things looked fundamentally the same. There was nothing radically different about a pocket square purchased in Madrid from one purchased in Vienna. Most of them had the same familiar patterns that we’re all accustomed to. This is when I had an idea to contact artists from places we’d visited and ask them to create a pocket square design. Once the first few designs were finished, I had them printed by a custom fabric printer in the U.S. I was surprised by how well the designs worked as pocket squares and I would often wear them and remember certain trips my wife and I had taken together. That’s when we thought that this could be a real business and spent the next two years learning about textile production, searching for a full-scale manufacturer, finding artists, and perfecting the designs.
What is the story behind R.Culturi?
As I mentioned, it spawned as a natural extension of two of my biggest interests. I realized that I had lots of neckties and pocket squares in my closet but many of them looked more or less the same. The designs and patterns didn’t have much significance to me. Then I thought about the illustrations and drawings I saw in galleries and on the streets in places like Yerevan, Kiev, and Barcelona. So, the idea came to me to seek out these kinds of artists and create wearable accessories around their work. Of course, design is half of the puzzle. The other half is having it made into a physical product. That’s why after extensive research and testing we chose Italian craftsmanship for our collection.
What makes R.Culturi different compared to other brands in the business?
What makes us different, and what some people may not realize, is that we never just take an artist’s existing work and print it onto a pocket square, scarf, etc. We actually collaborate with artists over several months to come up with the designs in our collection. Each one of them is a completely original work and only available through R. Culturi. Our philosophy is to also promote the artists as much as possible. That’s why we publish interviews about them on our blog, have information about them on our website, and always credit them whenever possible. We hope to bring increased exposure to the very talented individuals who shape our collection.
Where do you see the brand in the upcoming years?
My vision is for R. Culturi to be a global brand, not only in terms of consumer awareness but also in terms of the artwork. I want to collaborate with talented, creative people from all over the world and to be able to give them a voice through our “platform”, if you will. No matter how large R. Culturi grows though, I want to make sure we never stray from our core philosophy – to be true to the artist, to be true to the customer, and to never compromise on quality.
Recently, you announced the collaboration with the Swedish made to measure company Blugiallo. How did you end up creating this collaboration?
Initially, Alexander, one of the founders of Blugiallo, purchased a pocket square from us after Manolo published an article about our brand. Shortly after the purchase, I emailed him as I do all of our customers with a personal thank you note. That sparked up a conversation between the two of us, which developed into a friendship and eventually into a collaboration between our brands. It happened very organically and it was a natural fit. The collection came out beautifully and we couldn’t be happier.
Last but not least, are there any new and interesting collection or collaboration that you can announce for us?
I can’t say too much at the moment but we are indeed working on a couple of new collections for this year. I can tell you that they will be unlike anything you’ve seen from us in the past. We will be collaborating with artists from Bucharest in Romania, Iloilo City in the Philippines, and Philadelphia in the US. I’m very excited to unveil more in the next couple of months!
For today’s collage we take inspiration from the unique color with many names, some call it cobalt blue, other Napoli blue. The summer season allows brighter shades of blue to be worn instead of the more formal and laid back color navy. Wear the brighter colored suit with a pair of loafers to achieve the perfect summer look.
A few weeks ago, we took a closer look at the re-branded Engelska Herr in Malmö and its promising future online. In today’s article, we will look at the different alternatives that are available for the made to measure service Baltzar Sartorial, and of course the end result of my double breasted suit.
In the first article about Engelska Herr, we talked about the stores total makeover and how they are breaking new ground online with the multi channel concept Baltzar. The entrepreneurs Axel Persson and Wilhem Sturesson have created something unique by combining the heritage of the over 100 years old store, and delivered something new and exciting with their new look in store and online. At the same time, they launched a new made to measure concept called Baltzar Sartorial with the same design language. Is this service holding up to the same standard as the renewal of the store? Let us find out!
A classic made to measure service, that is what Engelska Herr have hidden under the name Baltzar Sartorial. The first thing that catches your eye about this service is the interesting start price point at 8495 SEK which also includes a full canvas construction. This price also includes a good selection of business fabrics, but there are many more fabrics and price ranges to choose from depending on your preferences.
I ended up choosing a lightweight summer fabric from the Italian mill Fratelli Tallia di Delfino. The fabric is available in the Baltzar Sartorial Tropical Wool book and weight approximately 270-300 grams. The combination of the weight and weave makes it a perfect companion for warmer days of summer, and wrinkle resistance for your travels.
The amount of selectable details are up to standard to other services and they offer the most common choices such as different styles for the jacket and trousers, lapels types and sizes, interlinings and pockets. They also offer a handmade construction for a premium for those who are interested and seeks the benefits of a handmade construction. It is a good selection, and will be enough for most customers.
In my case, I decided to go for a double breasted style with the widest lapels available at that time. I also choose the jetted pockets for a bit more formal look and a half lining to make it more suitable for the warmer months of the year. As an addition to this, I also tried the handmade construction alternative.
Engelska Herr normally offers a delivery time at 4-5 weeks for their made to measure service. My suit was delivered on time, but I picked it up at a later time during a weekend trip to Malmö last summer.
During my second meeting with Max Söderberg, we did some smaller adjustments for the trousers and jacket. We decided to make the trousers a bit slimmer to follow my natural silhouette, and we shortened the length of the arms for the perfect fit. During the pickup later that summer, Engelska Herr hosted a trunk with Fabio Attanasio from The Bespoke Dudes, presenting his new project, The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear.
The result was excellent at the pickup and when the smaller adjustments were made. Already during the first fitting, the double breasted jacket had a great fit which in my experience are hard to achieve from the first measurements. Max was right about the adjustments about the trousers, and even that they became slimmer, they highlighted my narrower body silhouette in a more pleasant way.
With a total price of 9995 SEK, which includes a handmade construction and details, I can highly recommend Engelska Herr and their made to measure service Baltzar Sartorial if you are in the neighborhood and are planning to order suit for approximately the same price range.