So after a short period off it’s time to get back to business. As of this Monday I would like us to take a closer at what I would call the ‘Italian Preppy’. At first sight a pinstripe fabric makes the suit formal that’s used for business meetings, but when combined right it can be worn in a completely different way. This is how I would wear the grey pinstripe suit, combining Italian flair with a taste of American preppiness. How would you wear it?
It’s time to get back to basics and we do this with iconic navy suit. This suit is the base for every man’s wardrobe and there’s not a single color which can’t be combined with it. Today I’ve choosen a lightweight suit in fresco wool to celebrate the warmer weather that’s finally here to stay.
For this weeks Monday inspiration we focused on the newsboy cap, a hat that’s been with us since the the late 19th centuries. It will keep your warm during winter and f it will be a good alternative to panama hat or the baseball cap to keep you cool for spring and summer. So lets’ take a closer look at the newsboy cap and my five favorites for the season.
The newsboy cap is a casual cap that’s similar in style to the flat cap. The shape reminds a lot of the flat cap but with a body that’s fuller, has a button on the top and often with a button to attach the front to the brim. It’s sewn together from the top of the hat and the sewn parts can look like slices of pizza, where the flat cap instead is sewn from the back. Traditionally it was sewn with eight panels, but can nowadays be found in various of different models where one of the more famous ones, called big apple, uses the same construction but just with a lot more fabric. The hat is often referred as the baker boy, the eight panel (because of the eight panels) or the gatsby cap (from the Great Gatsby).
The style was popular in both Europe and North America during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It has during a long time been associated with the newspaper boys, which is only partly true. Old photographs shows that these caps were worn both by boys and adult men, and particularly among the working classes. They have been seen on both newsboys, dockworkers, farmers, tradesmen and many other typical lower working class jobs. The upper classes had also been seen wearing them for their leisure activities such as golfing.
When it comes to choosing a newsboy cap it’s all about personal taste. What I would recommend is to start with one that has a neutral och earthy color, a color that will be easy to combine with the basic colors in your wardrobe. The cap itself is a very versatile hat and can be worn with either a t-shirt and jeans or to make a suit more casual (header credits to The Bespoke Dudes, Fabio Attanasio).
I’m not the person who normally wears hats but a hat that has catched my attention lately is the newsboy cap. This is thanks to people like Antonio Ciongoli and Fabio Attanasio that always wears them to perfection. Today’s Monday inspiration will focus on this particular cap how to combine it in a way that’s not to dressed or to casual (header, Antonio Ciongoli and Quinton Clemm over at Eidos Napoli).
A personal favorite when it comes to tailored clothing is without any about Isaia Napoli. Their campaigns and lookbooks with the softer Neapolitan silhouette and richer color palette always delivers high quality inspiration. For this spring and summer, Isaia Napoli have set course to one of the world’s most beautiful panoramas, the coast of Amalfi in Italy.
The new collection from Isaia Napoli is inspired and dedicated to the Amalfi coast, a coast that’s famous for it’s rich and varied heritage. The color palette is taken directly from this stunning place and the team behind the campaign shot the lookbook on site to catch the right atmosphere. The colors are inspired by different pieces of the town and the coast, such as the color blue that’s inspired by the clear blue water just outside Amalfi, yellow from the colored houses and the beaches and green with inspiration from the plants and trees that’s growing up-hill. Other interesting colors that’s featured in the collection are shades of pink and turquoise that without any doubt will need its character to been worn.
The design inspiration doesn’t stop here, instead another limited collection was made called the Coral Bandana Collection. This draws upon the regions history of the Amalfian Laws that’s considered to be the oldest maritime laws which was complied in the 12th century. The rules were followed throughout the middle ages and the Amalfi sailors proved its military power, success that developed a place on the Italian Nayv’s tag. The Amalfi sailor also wore a neckerchief known as the solino, which was later on adopted as a part of the uniform for the Italian navy. And that’s how the Coral Bandana collection came to life, a interesting touch to the main collection.
To make it more interesting I’ve included my own photos from Pitti Uomo 86 as a detail shots of the lookbook photos, or a photo that have something in common with the styling (the full official lookbook can be found here).
A color that has got my attention for a while now is the color brown. Brown matches with nearly all colors that you can think of, it’s only your imagination that stops you what to combine it with. I think brown works best with blue, green or beige and that’s what today’s inspiration is about, my favorite colors combined with the brown jacket.
I could not resist to visit one of the most interesting and mentioned men clothing store on the internet when I visited New York in February. I visited The Armoury NYC, an extension of the famous store in Hong Kong, a store that will be provide the New Yorker’s with one of the best tailored clothing assortment for many years ahead.
The Armoury is a relative young store which was established in Hong Kong in 2010 by the duo Alan See, Ethan Newton and Mark Cho. The plan behind the store was simple, to offer products that’s been crafted by passionate people and to work closely with them to improve or change the products. This means that only a selective number of brands will be sold in the stores, brands that the staff at the Armoury can be proud of selling. A more than welcome sight to today’s trend with products that’s masked by expensive advertising and mediocre quality.
In late 2013 a extension of the Hong Kong store was opened in New York at 168 Duane Street. New York, the big apple itself with all its travelling businessmen and the growing interests for men clothing made this a perfect location for the third store. The new store brought some exclusive brands with them such as the Liverano & Liverano, Ring Jacket, Orazio Luciano and St Crispin’s, brands that’s nearly impossible to get a hold of overseas. Another welcome investment is without any doubt the own labeled brand, which consists of garments that’s been put together in collaboration with their favorites workshops and mills. For the last fall season they made a collection of knitwear in conjunction with their favorite mill in Scotland, which is a perfect example how close the store actually works with their manufacturers. This is where the store stands out from the crowd, featuring more exclusive brands than any other shop in city but still bringing something new to a already overstuffed retail market in New York. Aside from the ready to wear assortment, The Armoury also have an impressive line-up for bespoke and made to measure options. From bespoke by the Florentine atelier Liverano & Liverano, to bespoke trousers from Ambrosi Napoli, to made to measure from Neapolitan Orazio Luciano and custom footwear from Austrian Saint Crispin’s.
This is a store that you shouldn’t miss if you’re visiting New York or Hong Kong, it’s a paradise for us who like tailored clothing and offering one of most interesting brands under one roof.
The Armoury NYC, 168 Duane St, New York.
Phone: +1 646 613 7613
Monday – Friday: 11 am – 8 pm (EDT).
Saturday: 11 am – 7 pm (EDT).
I know that I talk a lot about earthy colors but there’s a reason for this. The reason is fairly simple, it’s the easiest group of color that can be used for both men and women. The key to a good wardrobe is to have colors that’s easier to combine with each other, and therefor do I highly recommend to start off with similar colors to build it. Today I’ve combined khaki, brown and beige in lighter tones to catch the right feeling for spring (Header credits to Eidos Napoli).
Suitsupplys latest spring and summer campaign was discussed both here on the blog and on other websites about the bold nature of campaign. Today we will look closer at something completely different from the brand and that’s the latest Jort spring and summer 2015 collection. A collection which has become famous for offering one of the best price-performance ratio on the menswear market.
The Jort collection was introduced last spring with the famous Dutch business man and TV host, Jort Kelder, as a front man for the new project. The concept behind this collection is to offer a classic but playful garments with exclusive materials but still to affordable prices. The main differences between the standard line and the Jort line is that the suits and jackets are fully canvassed, compared to the standard line that’s half canvassed. In terms of fabric there’s always fabric featured from the best mills in the world and with small details such as real horn buttons and hand stitched shoulders. Trousers offers more details such as side adjusters, button fly and suspender buttons. Same goes for the shirts that borrows the details from the “Red Line” which includes the hand stitched shoulder (spalla camicia), mother of pearl buttons and handsewn buttons. Focus is instead on more exclusive fabrics, collars and cuffs for the Jort shirts.
The new campaign for the upcoming spring doesn’t disappoint. The classic colored suits such as the navy, blue and grey is still there but some of them have a unique and useful feature from the new product line, the Traveller. The unique thing about these suits is that they are constructed with a wool and mohair mix that makes them very resistant to wrinkles and creases. Other than that, we have collection with beautiful colors and fabrics for spring and summer and as always offered to reasonable prices.
The legendary M-65 field jacket is a classic piece that will be the perfect companion for the upcoming spring. It’s good against wind, keeps you warm during colder spring days and most of the field jackets nowadays is water repellent and protects very decent if the rain decides to come. I’ve combined two Italian’s specialists together, with a water-repellent field jacket from Apesi in the army green color and a suit from Satoria Formosa in the popular Solaro fabric will get you that perfect spring feeling.