Clothing

Clothing 0 comments berg berg, christian kimber, churchs, eidos, patek philippe, private white vc, shirtonomy

Monday Inspiration – Windowpane

22 February, 2016

Normally I do not like jackets with too bold colors or patterns, but for today we will do an exception. The key to be able to wear a jacket with a busy pattern is to combine it with other garments that are the opposite. I have chosen a jacket with a windowpane pattern that consists of the color combination blue, brown and white. At first sight these may look like an odd combination, but all the three colors belongs to the easiest ones to combine. If the cream colored trousers are too much for some of you, try to combine the jacket with a pair of brown or blue trousers instead.

Jacket – Eidos, Shirt – Shirtonomy, Trousers – Private White V.C, Tie – Berg & Berg. Pocket square – Christian Kimber, Shoes – Church’s, Watch – Patek Philippe 3597 Beta 21

Accessories, Clothing 0 comments drakes, drakes london, drakes of london, Luke Edward Hall, ss16

Drake’s Spring Summer 2016

21 February, 2016

We continue to look at the upcoming spring and summer collections and today we look at an all time favorite on To Quote. We head to London, and more precise No.3 Haberdasher Street, where will find the accessories specialist Drake’s.

Drake’s spring and summer 2016 takes us back to the 1950’s and brings us a collection full with washed out colors and textures. We can see different and unexpected color combinations such as pastel colored jackets in light blue combined with orange accessories. Linen dominates the tailored clothing, a material which creates comfortable and interesting textures for the shirts and jackets.

In the other end we have Drake’s more classic printed ties and scarves that are still the foundation for the collection. No other company has come close to deliver the same amount of interesting accessories as Drake’s, and the spring and summer collection does not disappoint. For this collection, Drake’s has also announced that they will do series of pocket squares in collaboration with Luke Edward Hall.

Drake’s succeeds to deliver a collection with garments that are both elegant and relaxed at the same time. The only thing we need now is the spring.

The full lookbook can be seen on Drake’s website here.

A polo jumper is the great way to dress down a jacket.

The pastel light blue jacket stands for the collection most colorful jacket.

Tobacco colored linen jacket.

Business casual with jeans.

Here is an perfect example how to combine heavy patterned ties with your outfit.

White polo jumper.

Block stripe linen shirt that will be a perfect companion for the beach this summer.

Colorful combinations.

Burgundy could possibly be one of the most versatile colors for a tie.

A shirt with an interesting texture.

Clothing 0 comments made to measure, mtm, pelote, pelote personal tailoring

Pelote – Part III – The Suit

17 February, 2016

During late last summer I chose to do a pair of made to measure trousers from the Malmö based company Pelote. I decided that I wanted to explore Pelote once again and see what they are capable to create. This resulted that I made an order for a suit with both classic and modern influences, and the time has come to see the result.

I have mentioned Pelote earlier a couple of times here on the blog. The first part of where you can read about the history of the company can be found here. If you are looking for the second part where I made a pair of made to measure trousers, it can be found here instead. For today we will talk about my latest creation with the company, a complete made to measure suit.

My intention was not create the perfect business suit, but instead something that I will be able to use at many different occasions. To be able to achieve this I put a lot of weight into the choice of fabric. My choice fell eventually on a navy 290 gr/m fabric with a subtle birdseye pattern from one of Pelote’s own fabric books Pelote Supérieur. This felt like a good choice as I also wanted to be able to wear the suit at as many seasons as possible. Something to think about when choosing a four season fabric is that many of the fabric options can easily look formal and lack of texture. Try to choose a fabric with some kind of texture to it, like the birdseye pattern as I chose.

Pelote Supérieur 290 gr/m birdseye fabric, 7495 SEK. My choice fell on the navy on the top of the photo.

The options for choosing fabrics are nearly endless and Pelote carries most of the fabric books that you can think of. Among the fabric books you can find common brands such as Vitale Barberis Canonico (VBC), Loro Piana, Holland & Sherry and Scabal, but also a great selection of fabrics under Pelote’s own private label. These fabrics are well selected from mills from all over the world but to an more affordable price. I highly recommend to take a look at these before looking at other fabrics as these ones could save you some money, but without compromising on the quality.

After that you have chosen your fabric, you will have the option to choose which details you would prefer for your suit. Pelote offers three different types of constructions for their jackets, the semi, half and full canvas. The semi canvas construction, which is included in the quoted price, features canvas for the lapels and and has a fused front. This is the most affordable option but it will not give the same mobility as the other options. Half canvas do instead offer a canvas construction that will be sewn at the shoulders and down the second button where you close the jacket. This option is more than enough for most people and will offer great mobility thanks to more lavish construction. If you choose this alternative it will be an extra cost of 1000 SEK as this is a more time consuming task for the tailor to construct.

The most luxurious construction that Pelote offers is the full canvas construction. What this means is that there is a canvas construction made from horse hair from the shoulders and all the way down to the bottom of the jacket. This is the most expensive and time consuming method a tailor can sew, but it will in end give the bearer of the jacket the best possible movement. An extra cost of 2000 SEK will be added if you choose this option, but I can assure you that it will be well spent money as the jacket will mold to your body over time. I choose to do the full canvas construction as I wanted the best possible mobility for my jacket. A pleasant surprise is that the button hole for the lapels will be hand sewn if you choose the full canvas construction, something that is often considered to be a sign of great craftsmanship.

Wider notched lapels and the handmade milanese buttonhole.

A good armlength will show 1-2 cm of the shirt cuffs.

A good sleeve length will show approximately 1-2 cm of the shirt cuff.

One of Pelote’s strongest sides is that they offer a lot of changeable details, something that is quite unique in this price range. The foundation of the jacket will be Pelote’s own silhouette, but besides that you have almost all thinkable possibilities to change whatever you would like. A few of the options that you will have possibility to change are the size and which type of the lapels you want, amount of padding in the shoulders, button stance for the jacket, height of the waistband, side adjusters, pick-stitching, pockets and much more.

For my suit I did not want to have too many details and I ended up choosing a lightweight silhouette with unconstructed shoulders, wider notched lapels, high rise trousers with single pleats, with a slightly extended waistband and side adjusters. I also chose to do a subtle pick stitching and added cuffs for the hem of the trousers. I would in the end call most of the these details rather classic and not too modern. With my choice of fabric, full canvas construction and details, the price ended up at 9490 SEK.

Back of the jacket and the natural shoulder.

Side adjusters and slightly higher waistband.

A no break length for the trousers, a personal reference for my trousers today.

Result and comments

Overall, I’m very pleased with both my suit and the service from Pelote. My measurements was taken by Gustav, the store manager of the store in Malmö, and he never disappoints. He opened the store after opening hours to able to take my measurements, as I was not able to make it in time during their ordinary opening hours. We sat down and talked about my expectations, looked at fabrics and discussed details for my suit without any kind of time pressure even that it was after business hours. After approximately four weeks I received an e-mail from Gustav that confirmed that my suit ready to be picked up. The timing was as promised and the end result met my exceptions.

I have now used my suit from Pelote for over two months, and I’m still very pleased with it. The only minor adjustment that I have done since I picked up the suit was to lengthen the trousers, something that is completely normal to do. Small details such as this is something that you will find out after wearing your garments for a while and will vary depending on many things such as choice of fabric.

My conclusion is that Pelote is a made to measure company that I can personally recommend to anyone who wants to do any kind of made to measure garments. Pelote has a wide selection of garments, fabrics and various of details to choose from, which means that everyone will be able to find something for their budget.

Pelote is also planning to open a second store in Gothenburg this spring, a store that I think have all the possibilities to become a favorite place to hang out for many people in Gothenburg for many years to come.

Complete price list:

Suits from 5495 SEK.

Jackets from 3895 SEK.

Coat from 4395 SEK.

Trousers from 1698 SEK.

Final result.

Clothing 0 comments christian kimber x eidos napoli, christian kimbere, drakes, eidos, heur, levis, luxire, tomas maier

Monday Inspiration – Chukkas

15 February, 2016

The Chukka boots are probably one of the most versatile shoe a man can have in his wardrobe. It can more than less be used all year round, depending on the material and type of sole. My favorite is the sturdier suede chukka with a rubber sole as it can be used both for the fall, winter and spring season here in Sweden. It can stand both against snow and rain, and the suede will develop a greater patina the more you use the shoes. A personal favorite among all chukkas are the one that Christian Kimber did in collaboration with Eidos Napoli for last fall and winter collection.

Add the discount code passportsale on Christian Kimber’s website to receive 40% of your order (only valid for the Passport collection).

Jacket – Luxire, Turtleneck – Tomas Maier, Jeans – Levi’s, Scarf – Drake’s, Boots – Christian Kimber x Eidos Napoli, Watch – Heuer Autavia Ref. 11630P

Clothing 0 comments carlos santos, orazio luciano, rolex, rubinacci, shibumi, suitsupply

Monday Inspiration – Classic Grey

8 February, 2016

Grey, a color that never will go out of fashion. What make the grey such a good choice of color is that it can more than less be match with almost every color you can think of. Grey is best friend with different shades of blue, brown and green. Today we look at one of my favorite combinations with the grey suit, paired with a forest green tie and white crisp shirt.

Suit – Orazio Luciano, Shirt – Suitsupply, Ties – Shibumi, Pocket square – Rubinacci, Shoes – Carlos Santos, Watch – Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512

Clothing 0 comments eidos, eidos napoli, La Casetta in Sabbia, ss16

Eidos Spring Summer 2016 – La Casetta in Sabbia

3 February, 2016

It is high time that we put the winter collections behind us and focus on the upcoming spring and summer collections. First out in our coverage is Eidos, an all time favorite ever since they started their journey three years ago.

We already looked closer at Eidos SS16 collection in July last year, just after that they had their second show at New York Fashion Week. That article showed a different angel on the collection and focused more on the models and garments. This article can be found here for those who have missed it.

Today we will instead take a deeper look at the recently released story lookbook. This is where Creative Director Antonio Ciongoli tries to tell us the story behind the collection, placing the models and clothing in its rightful and beautiful environments. For every new season Antonio tries to focus and get inspiration from a place and person. This time the collection is named La Casetta in Sabbia, which means the little house in the sand which you clearly can relate to all the light textures and fabrics in the collection. The inspiration behind the person comes from the businessman and CEO of Marni, Giovanni Castiglioni, that always is dressed in the perfect tailored suit every day.

Antonio succeeds once again putting together a breathtaking collection, with casual and tailored clothing combined in a way that few masters. I would personally say that the focus has turned to sportswear and casual clothing, but still having the right amount of tailored clothing in the collection.

The full lookbook can be found on Eidos website here, I highly recommend taking a look at it to be able to see the full story behind the collection.

White trousers is a must for summer.

The pique shirt look as good on the beach as under a sport coat.

Signature look from Eidos, espadrilles, rolled up trousers and layering with lightweight knitwear.

What Eidos truly master is the way of working with textures, here is a perfect example of this.

Workwear jacket with a printed fabric in a deep green color, something out of the ordinary without any doubt.

Indigo dyed shirt with pockets.

Monochrome styling.

A light colored suit is a nearly a must for summer as it keeps you cool during hot days.

Create a interesting look by combining formal wear with more casual garments.

Beige car coat.

Clothing 0 comments berg berg, camoshita, pt01, rubinacci, shibumi, vass

Monday Inspiration – Final Sale

1 February, 2016

We have been talking a lot about the winter sale during the last week. I hope that you learned a thing or two, and at the same time found something interesting to buy in my posts. Today I would like to post an example how you can put an outfit together even that the winter sale is in its final stage.

Jacket – Camoshita, Sweater – Berg & Berg, Trousers – PT01, Pocket square – Rubinacci, Scarf – Berg & Berg, Shoes – Vass x Shibumi

Clothing 0 comments boglioli, camoshita, caruso, corneliani, eidos, luciano barbera, oger, sartoria formosa, stile latino

Sale – Part II – Jackets

27 January, 2016

Last week we took a closer look at my favorite suits on the ongoing winter sale. Today it is time for the next part where I will pick my ten favorite jackets from different online shops.

The first part where I posted my favorites suits from the sale can be found here. The sale has been ongoing for a while so these products that I will share will not last for long, so do not wait too long to buy them if you find something interesting.

Navy jacket from Stile Latino, a true wardrobe staple. €899.50.

Forest green jacket from Oger’s line “Dressed for success”. €500.

Mid grey jacket Boglioli in the luxurious cashmere. €899.50.

Dark brown jacket form Caruso that can be worn with almost every single color. €750.

Brown and beige jacket from Sartoria Formosa in a classic hounds tooth pattern. $1280.

Jacket in a subtle green windowpane from Corneliani. €800.

Casual grey jacket from Camoshita, one of the most interesting designers right now. $495.

A season favorite with its rusty brown tweed from Sartoria Formosa. $1340.

Navy jacket from Luciano Barbera with a subtle brown window pane pattern. €949.50.

A bit more colorful jacket from Eidos, but with the right kind of colors. $507.

Clothing 0 comments alessandro gherardi, berg berg, orazio luciano, shibumi, velasca

Monday Inspiration – Pre Spring

25 January, 2016

The pre-spring collections have already landed in the stores, and we are even able to find some of the main spring and summer collections in some stores. It is still cold and dark outside but it is getting brighter and brighter for every day now. For today’s collage I would like to bring some spring feelings to my readers and how you can be inspired for the upcoming spring season.

Suit – Orazio Luciano, Shirt – Alessandro Gherardi, Tie – Shibumi, Pocket square – Shibumi, Loafers – Velasca, Portfolio – Berg & Berg

Clothing 0 comments boglioli, camoshita, caruso, eidos, oger, orazio luciano, sartoria formosa

Sale – Part I – Suits

24 January, 2016

We continue to look at the winter sale that are ongoing in online stores around the world. I will make three parts for this series, where the first part will be my ten favorite suits that you will be able to find on the ongoing sale.

Last week we talked about my thoughts and experience, and what you can do to make the most out of the sales periods. Try to focus on products that you will be able to use for a long time instead of seasonal ones that are based on current trends. A good point of advice is to find garments with subtle colors and textures. Instead of buying that colorful suit with a large windowpane pattern, try to find a suit with colors such as navy, chocolate brown, camel, dark grey or forest green.

To help you on the way I have picked ten of my favorite suits that you will be able use for many years to come.

Brown glencheck suit from Eidos that is still available in many sizes. $900.

Navy suit from Oger’s more luxurious line “Dressed for success”. €700.

Navy blue chalk stripe flannel 3-piece suit from Sartoria Formosa, one of few tailors who offers bespoke quality in ready to wear sizes. Pricing may sound high, but this is entirely handmade and the quality does not get much better than this. $1963.