I normally wear suits and sport coats everyday, but during the weekends I always like to bring out my casual part of my wardrobe. One of my favorite knitwear pieces for the season is the belted cardigan. Wear it with a t-shirt, a pair of raw denims, classic chelsea boots and an cozy scarf to keep you warm.
For today’s post I would like to present a new series of articles where we will look at my view on wardrobe staples. We will start the series to look closer at my personal favorite, the navy suit.
Some of you have probably heard about the expression “Black suits are reserved for funerals and weddings”. Where this may be true with some expectations, the most common mistake men do is to choose a black suit for their first commission. The first suit is normally the one that you buy for your graduation in school. In terms of formality, this may not be incorrect but a navy suit would be a much better choice in many perspectives.
The main reason in my opinion is that the navy choice gives you a lot more value for your money. It can be used in so many different occasions, it does not matter if it for the office, a wedding or evening events. Another argument that favors the color is that it more than less suits everyone. You will always look sophisticated and elegant, and not pale that can be the case sometimes when wearing black or grey suits.
A fabric with some type of texture such as birdseye, herringbone or hounds tooth will also give you the option to use the suit as separates. Try to combine the navy jacket with a pair of grey trousers for the ultimate menswear outfit, or why not a pair of brown trousers for a subtle but elegant look? The navy trousers in the other hand will be a great companion with just a white shirt or a brown jacket. The choices are endless as you will be able to combine navy with almost every color.
When it comes to fabrics, I would recommend to start off with either the worsted, three or four seasons wool fabrics. These kind of fabrics will first of all make your suit more durable and resistant. And due to the weight and weaving, the suit will all also be wearable nearly all year around.
The rest is up to personal references, but I would highly recommend to choose a more classic fit, details and length like the options that I have provided below.
The Solaro fabric is not a common sight today and are only available at a few selected stores in the world and through bespoke tailors. The weaving of the fabric mixes two colored threads that creates a shiny effect to it which reflects the light. This makes the Solaro fabric the perfect companion for the summer season and something that stands out from the crowd.
No matter how much I love the classics such as the navy suit, formal dressing can sometimes be a bit boring. What I have learned during the years is how to dress down tailored clothing and combine them with more casual garments. One of the guys who always pull this off is Yasuto Kamoshita, also know for his brand Camoshita. Today, I want to pay a tribute to Kamoshita with an attempt of his style.
With Swedish summer comes rain and either a good raincoat or umbrella is well worth an investment. Today will focus on the rain coat and how you will combine this with an outfit for the office. Choose a rain coat in a timeless color such as navy or army green as these colors will be easy to combine with your wardrobe. Let us beat the rain with style this summer.
For today’s Monday inspiration I wanted to try something different. There is no secret that I like the color blue and for today I would like to take it to another level and combine the color in all garments. To be able to succeed pulling off an outfit like this, try to find different shades of blue that reminds of each other.
Summer is closing in and today we will focus on one of my new favorite colors for summer, chocolate brown. I will also have the opportunity to present my newest project from Sartoria Francesco Guida in the near future. A suit in a chocolate brown lightweight wool, perfect for summer, and Pitti Uomo.
I discovered Francesco Serraiocco nearly two years ago and have ever since followed the footsteps of the brand. I decided to take a closer look at the brand and ordered a custom tie, and today I’m able to show the result.
Francesco, or Frank as he is called, has always had a creative and artistic side and in 2012 he finally decided to create his self-titled brand, a brand that goes back to his Italian roots and focus on the finest craftsmanship and quality. The inspiration behind the brand comes from the Neapolitan tradition and its classic construction and techniques. Cucito a mano, or handsewn is a key word for the company and the tailored clothing are made in the heart of Napels. Wider and higher placed lapels, exaggerated quarters and breast pockets, and the characteristic spalla camicia shoulder are just a few of the details that are featured.
With inspiration from the Neapolitan style, Frank started to learn the craftsmanship behind tie making and ended up developing his own pattern. The idea began with creating a true seven-fold tie but after hours of researching and creating different patterns, Frank ended up creating an unique nine-fold pattern. The ties are made entirely by hand and takes nearly 4-6 hours of labor to complete.
I just want to emphasize the overall goal of my brand is to create a product that is for the connoisseur. I want to make something that no machine can replicate. These are lifestyle garments and my hope is that they are appreciated by the wearer in the same way a painting is to an art collector. – Frank Serraicco
The tie pattern is always cut by hand and with extra attention for the alignment of the fabric.
Hand rolled edges are a sign of craftsmanship and creates a luxurious feeling.
All ties are made in an exclusive nine-fold pattern which is folded 9 times from the same cloth.
The hand sewn saddle stitching are made in complementary colors to create an interesting look for the ties.
One of the final steps of the tie process is to sew the bartacks by hand.
The last step of the process is to sew on the logotype of Francesco Serraicco. By hand of course.
I decided that I wanted to take a closer look at the brand and choose to order a tie. Frank offers a form of made to order service as the ties are created upon request. What this means is that you will have the possibility to choose between various of fabrics and just a small amount of these choices are available on the website today. For my tie, I personally e-mailed Frank as I wanted a forest green fabric either in linen, silk or lightweight wool. He ended up showing me a fantastic raw silk fabric in exactly the forest green color that I was looking for.
Once you have chosen your fabric, the tie will be created in Frank’s nine-fold pattern as mentioned earlier. Keep in mind that there are no other options to choose from as Frank only works with his nine-fold pattern. You are able to choose a width of either 8 or 9 cm and your preferred length of the tie, which I would personally say are one of the main reasons for ordering a custom made tie. The delivery time may vary, but it normally takes around 4-6 weeks before you have it at your doorstep.
The delivery time was as promised for my tie and my first impression was that the fabric was absolutely stunning. A closer look at the tie reveled that Frank has put a lot of time and effort into crafting this. The hand stitching and rolled edges are made by an experienced hand, and still has the characteristic feeling of the uneven beauty of a handmade product. The tie feels balanced, which all tailors do not master when using a nine fold construction and without any interlining. You can also see that this is a true nine-folded tie with nine folds visible on both ends of the tie.
With a price starting at $175 and this level of handwork, I would say that this is something out of the ordinary. This has my approval of a product of great craftsmanship and quality and I will without any doubt order from Frank again in the future.
The nine-fold construction creates a rich knot due to the amount of fabric.
Forest green raw silk.
Closer look at the complementary color for the bracket stitching.
A mother of pearl button are fastened on both ends of the tie so the customer are able to view the nine-folds construction.
When the button is unfastened, we can clearly see the nine-fold construction.
Hand rolled edges on the end of the tie for a luxurious feeling.
A color that has caught my attention lately is tobacco, a color that reminds of the color of a cigar. What makes this color different is that it not too light, nor too dark as the chocolate brown may be sometimes. Today I wanted to show you how good the tobacco color can look and I choose to combine it with shades of blue. Due to the nature of the tobacco color, you can easily change the blue accessories to brown or even forest green and still look stylish.