One of many benefits of a sport coat is the versatility to wear it with different garments from your wardrobe. Combine it with a pair of formal wool trousers for the office, or denims for the walk in the city. For today’s collage, I would like to show how to wear the later.
There have never been so many alternatives to choose from when it comes to tailored made to measure garments. That means that newly created actors needs to offer something unique. It could be that their products stands out from the crowd in terms of quality, options, the amount of fabrics or even quicker delivery options. One new player that are filling one important gap on the market is Blugiallo, a company that offers a new digital experience for the Swedish customers.
Everything began in late December 2013 in a small restaurant located in the central parts of Bologna, Italy. The two friends, Alexander and Daniel, were having a dinner conversation whereupon an elder gentleman entered the resturant. The lively discussion about the ongoing Champions League stopped and the focused changed to this flawlessly dressed gentleman, wearing a double breasted suit tailored to perfection. The elder man leaves the restaurant, leaving the friends to their own thoughts and both agreed on that they had a long way to reach the same level of elegance.
The conversation continued and they started to discuss the unjustified focus on quick fashion, the respect of craftsmanship, tradition and the quality for clothing. Looking back at the elder gentleman, who was clearly wearing a suit made by his local tailor, showed something out of the ordinary. Both continued and agreed on that it could not be that convenient, or economically for the wallet to run to your tailor to sew new clothing in this traditional way. Why not combine this fantastic and traditional craftsmanship in a modern and digital service with focus on flexibility and the customer?
And so, the idea was born in in the track of the love that the two friends have for Italy and its traditional craftsmanship. It was decided, the best of Italian and Sweden created the brand Blugiallo with one promise, a made to measure service fit for the 21st century.
21st Century made to measure
Made to measure should not be complicated, and Blugiallo’s vision is to simplify the process and offer a service fit for the present. With a core focus on a digital and customer experience, its a leap to take the made to measure service to another level.
Instead of presenting just another made to measure service, Blugiallo wants to offer a simplified and complete packages for its customers. The first step to take a part Blugiallo’s service is to book an appointment with them, either by visiting their showroom in Borås, one of their trunk shows or to book a private meeting for their corporate service.
After the initial meeting, your garment will be delivered to your home address or nearest pick-up point within 4-6 weeks along with details for your own personal profile online. With this profile, you will be able to order made to measure and made to order garments and accessories online without attending any meetings or trunk shows.
Their customer service team will always be able to assist you with updating your measurements, giving you style tips or discussing your next order through live chat and e-mail.
Instead of presenting an ordinary made to measure service, with numerous of collections and choices, Blugiallo have simplified the process and put together different offers from the start. Blugiallo’s vision is to offer handpicked collections, with different styles, fabric selections and details to make it easier for the customer.
Blugiallo offers the following categories as of today: Business 365, Four Season, Eminent, Spotlight. Each category are divided into smaller collections, where every collection represent different constructions, fabrics and silhouettes. The reason behind having different collections for the categories is to make it easier for the customers to find what they want, without having too many alternatives to choose from. This could be one of the key items to achieve a successful made to measure service based online.
Business 365 – Basic and minimalistic
Business 365 is the entry-level category which consists of three collections to choose from. These collections are highly recommended to choose if you never tried made to measure clothing before as the lower entry price gives it them an excellent price and quality ratio.
Stockholm is the most basic collection to choose from and is characterized by its minimalist style and colors. It is affordable and an excellent first choice for new and inexperienced customers.
Amsterdam focus instead on a more exclusive construction and fabrics compared to Stockholm. This collection offers the widest selections of fabrics to choose from, but still considered to offer a very good price, construction and quality ratio.
Wien is the most exclusive choice among the Business 365 collections. Wien focuses on luxurious fabrics and the more costly full canvas construction in an affordable fashion. This is the choice for the connoisseur that only wants the best, but with a limited budget.
Prices: Suits 5490 – 7290SEK, Shirt 1290-1490SEK, Trousers 1990-2290SEK, Overcoats 6890-7290SEK.
Four Season – Seasonal favorites
Four Season is Blugiallo’s most interesting category with focus on seasonal favorites and constructions. Compared to Business 365, this collection changes the spotlight to light constructions, colors and patterns consisting of two collections, Bologna and Bordeaux.
Bologna are the foundation of the Four Season collections and offers seasonal fabrics with a lighter canvas construction and unconstructed shoulders. If you are after a leisure and more sport influenced suit or sport coat, this is the choice.
Bordeaux is similar to Wien from the Business 365 collections, but instead with a focus on seasonal fabrics.
Prices: Suits 7290-7890SEK, Shirt 1490-2190SEK, Trousers starting at 2290SEK, Overcoats starting at 7290SEK.
Eminent – The connoisseurs choice
Eminent is a statement from Blugiallo that they are able to make the finest tailoring to date. With garments made carefully by hand in the heart of Italy, this is the collection for the connoisseur.
Geneve is Blugiallo’s answer for luxury at its best and offers handmade details, a full canvas construction and the best fabric to date.
The Blugiallo collection is the brands own way of expressing their passion for Italian craftsmanship. Sit down with a coffee and take a look at their finest fabric bunches and let the fun begin. This is what Italian tailoring is about.
Prices: Suits 10490-12490SEK.
Spotlight – Black tie party
The spotlight line and collection is where you are able to find Blugiallo’s offers for your next black tie event. Here we are able to find tuxedos and fabrics in all the different fabrics that you ever will need for the parties.
The Tailor Room
After you have been provided with credentials after your first order, you will be able to retrieve full access to the The Tailor Room. This is an easy navigated and designed area and one of Blugiallo’s core ideas of changing the made to measure industry. Blugiallo will present personalized outfits from their collections to match the preference of your last order or personal style. These outfits will be presented in the way of a suit, jacket or even a full outfit with additions accessories such as shirts, ties and pocket square. Instead of seeing hundres of different fabrics and options, the focus will instead be on fewer and well thought through outfits to make it easier for the customers for their next purchase.
In the made to measure section, your personalized outfits will be presented and after choosing an outfit you will be forwarded to finalization page. You do not need to think about your measurements, as these are already saved since before by the Blugiallo team. The only thing that you need to think about is your preference for you tailored garment. A good amount of options will be presented which are carefully optimized for the new customer, but also the more experienced (customized alterations and details can always be discussed with Blugiallo via chat or e-mail). After choosing your specific details, its off to the payment step and that is it! Now you only need to wait 5-6 weeks for your garment to be delivered home to your doorstep or nearest pickup point.
The Tailor Room also offers a smaller selection of accessories and made to order garments. Here we are able to find ties from R.Culturi, pocket squares from the limited collaboration between Blugiallo x R.Culturi and made to order garments such as leisure pique shirts.
I also had the opportunity to met Alexander and Daniel in Stockholm earlier this spring and took some measurements for an army green cotton suit for the upcoming summer season. In the next part of this article, we will take a closer look at the final results and details for my order.
For today’s collage, I would like to like pay a tribute to the iconic waxed jacket. The waxed jacket is a flexible companion no matter the task. It does not matter if you are planning a hunting trip the forest, or if you are planning for a walk in the city. What all waxed jackets have in common are that they will get nicer the longer your wear them as they will develop a beautiful patina over the years.
Engelska Herr has provided the people in southern Sweden with tailored clothing for the latest 100 years. With two new owners in the lead, the store have during the latest years being revitalized, with focus on keeping the heritage and delivering a completely new in-store and online experience.
The store was originally founded by the two ladies Lena and Margareta in 1906 under the name Engelska Kravatt. At that time period, the store presented cravates inspired by British fashion. It was later sold on to Sven Nilsson during 1957 where they moved to the current address at Djäknegatan 22 in the central parts of Malmö. Engelska Herr was founded where focus changed to sell men’s clothing and presentend native brands and later on presented international brands such as Mulberry and Yves Saint Laurent.
In December 2013, two young entrepreneurs by the name Wilhelm Sturesson and Axel Persson bought the store and started a total makeover and a new strategy for the digital sphere. The duo renovated the store with the heritage of the brand in mind, and added a completely new presentation for the assortment. They kept the earthy color schema of blue, grey and beige of the assortment that were hanging on the walls, and replaced stiff and padded jackets with unconstruced shoulders and softer materials.
The old Swedish, German and English brands are now sharing shelves with fashion and tailored clothing from Italy. Instead of just adding big and well known brands, the company have changed its focus to find brands with their own specialty. A few of these added brands are Frank Clegg, Eidos, The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear and Buttero which gifts perfectly with their new vision.
We wanted to re-new and rejuvenate the store – Wilhelm Sturesson
The basement of store, where the old storage was located, have been renovated to give room for the new made to measure initiative under the name of Baltzar Sartorial. The room itself is decorated to offer the customer a secluded area where they have the opportunity to be alone, take a coffee or just look through their collection of fabric swatches.
Engelska Herr is still a haberdashery for men’s clothing, but also an institution for fashion with events and trunk shows from interesting brands. A customer should still be able to fetch the navy suit and a crisp white shirt for the office, but also smaller and specialized brands and unique offerings in store and online. The online part of Engelska Herr is the new core in the company and is located on the newly founded webshop Baltzar. The name Engelska Herr has lived on since the take over in 2013, but changes will be made during 2017. Later this year, the name will be changed to deliver the full experience of their new vision under the Baltzar branding. In addition to this, another store will be merged into the Baltzar concept. The store Richard Gelding is located on the famous streets of Mayfair, 27 North Audley Street in London. This store will tie together the concept internationall
Made to measure – Baltzar Sartorial
I had the opportunity to visit the newly renovated store last summer and decided to commission a suit through their new made to measure service, Baltzar Sartorial. During my visit, I had the honor to meet Max Söderberg which is Engelska Herr’s made to measure specialist. Max have worked with tailored clothing since long and belongs to one of the most experienced specialist within this area in Sweden. With that said, my expectations became a bit higher due to his long experience and knowledge.
I had a vision to create a grey four season double breasted suit, and something that was formal enough to wear at the office, but also light enough for warmer summer days. My decision fell for a tropical wool fabric from Fratelli Tallia di Delfino with a weight around approx 260-280 grams. It was not too heavy, or too light but it was still a bit more orientated for spring and summer. The final result of the suit will be presented in part two of this article that will be posted in the upcoming weeks. Until then, feel free to browse around on Baltzar for some spring and summer inspiration.
The grey suit is a wardrobe staple, but are sometimes presented as a boring and formal choice. That may not always be true, and there are many ways to make the grey suit more interesting only by combining the right accessories. For today’s post, I wanted to go for a classic outfit in a seasonal touch with the cotton and linen suit from Boglioli.
A blazer may feel too formal for some, but there are other alternatives to begin with. A knitted blazer is the perfect combination of formality and sportswear. It is leisure, comfortable and easier to wear with everything you throw at it such as a pair of jeans or chinos. Today’s collage flirt with the early days of summer, where you will be able to wear your knitted blazer with the classic and elegant panama hat and a pair of tassel loafers.
For today’s post, I wanted to quickly talk about the grey suit. Let’s face it, the navy suit will always be hard to beat due to its versatility. The grey suit is great candidate for the second place, just behind the versatility of its navy companion. The reason behind this is simple as the nature of the color will make it easy to match and combine with the full color spectrum. Use the subtle color of the grey suit as a foundation, and then add accessories in either tone in tones, earthy or why not some sparkling color? To help you out, I have added a few favorites from the upcoming season in different price ranges.
Spring is finally here and the temperature is reaching the level when you are able to throw off the coat. Instead, you are able to wear a suit on its own to embrace the weather, and instead focus on colorful and lightweight accessories. Today, I choose a navy suit from Oscar Jacobson as the foundation in the outfit, combined it with a casual oxford shirt from Morris and a pair of suede monk straps from Santoni. With the addition of the lightweight regimental grenadine tie from Eton, a colorful and playful pocket square from Drake’s, it becomes a excellent outfit for spring. Do not forget a pair of sunglasses to protect your from the sun, in this case a pair of classic rounded Ray-Ban’s.
Today, I have the honor to finally present the second and last part of my bespoke trousers through Robin Pettersson Tailor. We will look at the end result of the garment and also what changes Robin Pettersson as a company have done since the last article in late 2015.
First of all, I want to clarify a few reasons behind the delay of this article. The third fitting for the trousers was initiated in the beginning of January 2016, and some small adjustments were needed to the achieve the end result that me and Robin Pettersson were after. Due to various of trips from both ends and a long time of sickness, a fourth fitting was not achieved until late in spring 2016. With that in mind, both me and Robin took the decision to postpone this article until late 2016 instead of publishing it in the middle of the summer. As many of you are hopefully aware of, this blog is only a hobby of mine and sometimes there are not enough of free time to spend on it and prioritization are needed elsewhere.
With that said, I would like us to change focus to what changes Robin Pettersson Tailor have been ongoing the last year. Due to an increased workload, Robin started a collaboration with the English trouser maker William Baxter that are putting together the components of the trousers. Robin is still responsible for the fitting sessions and are also the one who cuts the unique pattern for the customers.
Robin Petterson is now officially a trainee in the art of sewing, which means that he is skilled enough to take full prices for his bespoke garments. Robin is normally only accepting new orders for trousers, but in some cases he is also able to craft full bespoke jackets or suits depending on the current workload. The prices for Robin’s own bespoke garments are from now on in line with B&Tailors bespoke garments, starting at 25 000 SEK for suits, 21 000 SEK for jackets and 4500 SEK for trousers. All alternatives includes a fine selection of fabrics, but the final prices could vary depending on your choice of fabric.
Another interesting news is that Robin has now also been approved by 100hands and are now offering their bespoke shirts in his atelier and during his trunk shows. 100hands is a shirt company that offers completely handmade shirts and are known for their manufacturing of one of the finest shirts in the world. To have the opportunity to order one of these shirts in any of Robin’s trunk shows in Europe, and especially in his atelier in Gothenburg, is something unique and another milestone for his career.
The verdict and final result
After a long intro of the article, let us instead look at the final result of my bespoke trousers from Robin. Already during my first fitting, I was very impressed about the way of the fit and comfort of the trousers. For the final result, I would say that this feeling have grown into something that is even better than the first experience. Let us look at the key components of the trousers and what makes me say that these belongs to one of the best fitting trousers in my wardrobe.
The result is in my opinion what bespoke is really about. The first thing that strikes you is the comfort level of the trousers, they are just like a pair of pajamas slacks. Whenever you move, you can feel that they are cut exactly after your body shape as the fabric neither feels to tight or feels baggy.
The only change I would like to do for my next pair of bespoke trousers from Robin Pettersson is to widen the end of the trousers and just lenghten them a tiny bit to compensate the change. These changes are personal changes and do not impact what great trousers Robin has created in the end. This is real bespoke, and made in Sweden.
The bomber jacket has received an enormous popularity the last couple of years and there are various of alternatives to choose from in stores and online. Many brands takes inspiration from the original design to create something own and unique, and one of these are the English based Private White V.C. Thanks the versatility of the bomber jacket, it can almost be worn with everything that you are able to find in your wardrobe. Wear it with a pair of denims, or why not a pair of flannel trousers? The choices are many, so I created an inspiration collage to make it easier for everyone out there.