The winter is finally coming to an end and the spring is showing itself in Stockholm. It’s time to hang in the heavy overcoat and bring forth the unlined jackets. One of my favorite combination for spring is the suede jacket and that is exactly today’s foundation is for today’s collage.
A new year means new opportunities, and of course new inspiration. Today I’m inspired of my favorite color scheme, the earth tones. Combining different colors from same color scheme creates a harmonic look and a perfect way to create an unique outfit. A tip are try throw in different types of clothes, both formal and casual.
2017 is slowly coming to an end and for the last post of the year, I would like to present a different look for New Year’s Eve. The tuxedo may be on of the most orginal outfits to wear as a gentleman on this evening, but few are comfortable with it. Instead of the tuxedo, I would like to make a stand for the three piece suit, combined with a crisp white shirt and a black grenadine tie. Do not forget to add a plain white pocket square and a pair of black wingtip brogues to make the outfit a bit less formal.
What I really like about winter is the heavy knitwear, and using different garments for layers to stay warm during the colder days. A personal favorite is the turtleneck in a soft merino wool or cashmere, combined with a pair of old school flannel trousers and a sport coat with a heavier fabric.
Winter is here and what is more classic than rocking a navy pea coat? With its origin from the British navy, it is built to withstand the cold wind during the winter. Complete the naval look by adding a turtleneck and for layering during the colder days.
During this fall, Brothers will head out on a tour in Sweden to increase men’s knowledge about fit and style. Brothers will be able to do this by offering a personal fit analysis and the possibility to bring your old garments to adjust them after your unique measurements. Every man should be able to find his perfect size, his so called “Size You“. And that is what the tour is about, to raise the question about the male body ideals and that everyone are unique.
All bodies are unique and the body of the Swedish man is no different. Some have muscular thighs, others have a round belly or the so called love handles. The variations of the male body are endless and the result of this is that most of men feel that they are unable to find their size in stores and online.
Earlier this spring, Brothers hosted a tour in Sweden to spread the word about their made to measure service, and also took the opportunity to collect data from a larger amount of men’s body measurements. Based on this information, the company have been able to create an avatar that represent the average Swedish man to show how he actually looks in real life and how it differs from the standardized size system.
Body ideals have gained more space in the public debate. We want to pay attention to the issue even from a male perspective. Our hope is to make people to feel more comfortable with their body and feel that their blazer, shirt or pants fit as they are supposed to. All bodies are unique, and Brothers wants to educate Swedish men during this upcoming tour and help them to find their “Size You“. – Magnus Hultin, Chief Designer at Brothers.
A lot of men feel insecure how a suit should fit and that is not something to be a shame of. Brothers will during this tour guide Swedish men to a more well-dressed look, customized after each and everyone’s unique style, size and body. Except the fit analysis that is offered during the tour, Brothers will also offers a selected amount of visitors to bring their own tailored garments, and to get it adjusted to their own”Size You“.
Usually only one small adjustment is needed, sometimes none at all is required and in some cases it is necessary to correct all the measurements. With the tour, Brothers wants to teach men more about their size and fit, but also offer the opportunity to customize and correct earlier purchases. In terms of sustainability, it is important to ensure that all clothes that are hanging in the wardrobes are actually used and that future purchases are perfectly fitted from the start, ” – Magnus Hultin, Chief Designer at Brothers
Brothers tour in Sweden will begin 30/9 and will during five weeks visit 15 different malls, stations and offices in Sweden (the full schedule can be found below). If you are not able to attend the tour, you can find your “Size You” online.
30/9-1/1/10 Mall of Scandinavia, Stockholm
2-3/10 Stockholms Central Station
4-6/10 Kista Galleria, Stockholm
7-8/10 Täby Centrum, Stockholm
11-12/10 Mästerhuset, Stockholm
14-15/10 Birsta City, Sundsvall
17-18/10 Erikslund, Västerås
19-20/10 Marieberg, Örebro
21-22/10 Allum, Gothenburg
23-24/10 Gothenburgs Central station
25-26/10 Kungsmässan, Kungsbacka
27-28/10 Nordstan, Göteborg
29-30/10 Emporia, Malmö
31/10-1/11 Malmös Central Station
2-3/11 Triangeln, Malmö
4-5/11 Ingelsta Shopping, Norrköping
A few weeks ago, we looked at the new and exciting made to measure company Blugiallo. In the first article, we took a closer look at the company’s history, vision and portfolio. For today’s article, we will continue the journey to see if Blugiallo lives up to their vision, a made to measure experience fit for the 21st century.
It was a cold day in February and I was on my way to Kommendörsgatan 15, the place where Blugiallo are holding their trunk shows in Stockholm. During my arrival, both Alexander and Daniel greeted me, showed me to a sofa and offered a coffee. The coffee was served, and I started straight away to look into the different fabric swatches to find what I was looking for.
After a short time of period, Daniel approached me and asked what kind of suit I was looking for. I explained that I had a vision to find either a blue tropical wool, or a beige or green cotton fabric. With that said, Daniel explained thoroughly about their different collections, Business 365, Four Season, Eminent and Spotlight. We quickly ended up with the Four Season collection due my vision about the season specific fabrics. After pointing out that I also wanted to have a full canvas construction, we landed on the Bordeaux, the more luxurious line in the Four Season collection. In the end, the choice fell on a green cotton from E.Thomas, weighing approximately 290 grams and a price tag at 7990 SEK.
With one of the most important and hardest choices done, we continued to the mirror to take the full body measurements for a suit. Two fitting garments were handed over to me, a jacket in size 50 and a pair of trousers in size 48. This is normally the correct sizes in ready to wear clothing for me, but due to my differential body measurements, I always end up choosing made to measure services to make my life easier.
The measurements were carefully taken, and we discussed some personal references such as the length and drape of the jacket and the width of the trousers. My preferences were taken very seriously, but as a part of my review, I also let Daniel and Alexander decide most of the measurements to be able to show the full experience of the service.
After that the measurements were taken, we naturally continued with the last and remaining details. We discussed different lapels and sizes, linings, pleated or flat fronted trousers and much more. I chose the largest notch lapels and a half-lined jacket, one single pleated trousers with 5 cm cuffs.
And that was it, my green cotton suit was measured and all the details were set and sent to production. Me and Daniel sat down afterwards and went through the delivery date and how their online based profile worked on Blugiallo (a more detailed view of the online profile is included in the the first article about Blugiallo).
The delivery took approximately 5 weeks so they held up to the promise, but I choose to meet Blugiallo once again in the end of March for a personal pickup and to make any adjustments if necessary. The day came and I picked up the suit and mentioned one or two things that maybe needed to be adjusted after wearing it for a while. Now, some people may think that adjustments are a bad thing, but it is very common that smaller adjustments are needed for your first made to measure garment. I would even say that it is common that you need to do a couple of garments before achieving the best possible balance and fit.
This article was written nearly 3 months after the delivery of the suit, and I have now had the time use it in real life for a good amount of time. And I must say that I’m very pleased with the result, and what a good job Daniel and Alexander did for taken the measurements. I can be a tricky customer, especially with my special requests of details such as high waisted trousers and lower button stance. I’m actually that pleased, so I decided to order a new suit in the end of May, where we did some smaller adjustments for the tilting of the arms, and also made the waist measurements a bit wider. In my eyes, a great result and a service that I have waited that is easy to to order made to measure garments online.
For today’s post I would like to push for the tie-less look for the ongoing summer season. Try to throw away the tie sometimes for a more relaxing and cooler look in the hot summer weather. When wearing an outfit without the tie, try focus on materials such as cotton or linen for the jacket, and sneakers in suede or leather for a even more leisure look.
For today’s collage we take inspiration from the unique color with many names, some call it cobalt blue, other Napoli blue. The summer season allows brighter shades of blue to be worn instead of the more formal and laid back color navy. Wear the brighter colored suit with a pair of loafers to achieve the perfect summer look.
A few weeks ago, we took a closer look at the re-branded Engelska Herr in Malmö and its promising future online. In today’s article, we will look at the different alternatives that are available for the made to measure service Baltzar Sartorial, and of course the end result of my double breasted suit.
In the first article about Engelska Herr, we talked about the stores total makeover and how they are breaking new ground online with the multi channel concept Baltzar. The entrepreneurs Axel Persson and Wilhem Sturesson have created something unique by combining the heritage of the over 100 years old store, and delivered something new and exciting with their new look in store and online. At the same time, they launched a new made to measure concept called Baltzar Sartorial with the same design language. Is this service holding up to the same standard as the renewal of the store? Let us find out!
A classic made to measure service, that is what Engelska Herr have hidden under the name Baltzar Sartorial. The first thing that catches your eye about this service is the interesting start price point at 8495 SEK which also includes a full canvas construction. This price also includes a good selection of business fabrics, but there are many more fabrics and price ranges to choose from depending on your preferences.
I ended up choosing a lightweight summer fabric from the Italian mill Fratelli Tallia di Delfino. The fabric is available in the Baltzar Sartorial Tropical Wool book and weight approximately 270-300 grams. The combination of the weight and weave makes it a perfect companion for warmer days of summer, and wrinkle resistance for your travels.
The amount of selectable details are up to standard to other services and they offer the most common choices such as different styles for the jacket and trousers, lapels types and sizes, interlinings and pockets. They also offer a handmade construction for a premium for those who are interested and seeks the benefits of a handmade construction. It is a good selection, and will be enough for most customers.
In my case, I decided to go for a double breasted style with the widest lapels available at that time. I also choose the jetted pockets for a bit more formal look and a half lining to make it more suitable for the warmer months of the year. As an addition to this, I also tried the handmade construction alternative.
Engelska Herr normally offers a delivery time at 4-5 weeks for their made to measure service. My suit was delivered on time, but I picked it up at a later time during a weekend trip to Malmö last summer.
During my second meeting with Max Söderberg, we did some smaller adjustments for the trousers and jacket. We decided to make the trousers a bit slimmer to follow my natural silhouette, and we shortened the length of the arms for the perfect fit. During the pickup later that summer, Engelska Herr hosted a trunk with Fabio Attanasio from The Bespoke Dudes, presenting his new project, The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear.
The result was excellent at the pickup and when the smaller adjustments were made. Already during the first fitting, the double breasted jacket had a great fit which in my experience are hard to achieve from the first measurements. Max was right about the adjustments about the trousers, and even that they became slimmer, they highlighted my narrower body silhouette in a more pleasant way.
With a total price of 9995 SEK, which includes a handmade construction and details, I can highly recommend Engelska Herr and their made to measure service Baltzar Sartorial if you are in the neighborhood and are planning to order suit for approximately the same price range.