Today we will talk about the latest collection from the luxurious brand Brunello Cucinelli. A brand who started with a small collection of cashmere sweaters and are today seen as one of most influential brands in menswear.
Brunello Cucinelli always delivers collections that are different compared to other fashion brands. What Brunello Cucinelli do different is that their collections focus on the colors and materials, and not a specific style that is often seen in other brands collections. Here we are instead able to see a red line through all of their collections with the same type of combinations with earthy color choices.
This collection is no different and we can see beautiful combinations with different shades of blue, brown and grey. Outfits are casually inspired and outfits with sport coats combined with vests are a key look for Brunello Cucinelli this spring and summer.
For today’s Monday inspiration we will focus on my newly found favorite color, chocolate brown. This color is just not easy to match, but it is also less formal than other colors such as blue and grey. Due to this, it will have an advantage when worn with leisurewear such as polo sweaters and shirts, t-shirts and loafers. Here is how I would wear a chocolate brown suit this spring, how would you wear it?
Chocolate brown cotton suit from Suitsupply with handmade details such as the ‘spalla camicia’ shoulder.
The polo sweater is a great option instead of a shirt under the jacket. Here from Berg & Berg in a sand colored merino wool option.
Round metal frame sunglasses from Dries Van Noten is a perfect companion for a retro look this spring.
Pocket square from Rampley & Co inspired by Carlo Crivelli’s painting The Annunciation with Saint Emidius from 1486.
Large tote bag from Frank Clegg in the beautiful chestnut color.
Christian Kimber’s take on the classic tassel loafer. On sale for only $160 AUD with the code FINALSALE.
For this Sunday we will talk about an online store that has been a favorite since long here on To Quote. This is an unique store with the one of the widest selection of high quality accessories that I have encountered during my days. The online store we will talk about today is Exquisite Trimmings and the process of ordering a bespoke tie.
Shaya Green has always had a passion for fashion clothing and during his younger years he was always wearing the most popular brands and clothing. His passion quickly evolved to an interest for tailored men’s clothing, and especially for the craftsmanship behind handmade garments. He slowly started to explore different brands and after some time he finally decided to start his own brand in 2011 when he lived in Brooklyn, New York.
Exquisite Trimmings was founded and the vision was clear from the beginning, to be able to offer the finest accessories for men, that are handmade by the best craftsmen in the world. And at the same time offer this to affordable prices, and a complete experience with a spotless customer service combined with a fast and secure shipping to your doorstep.
The online store’s main focus are on accessories and carries a wide selection from well renovated brands. We are also able to find a fine selection of clothing, such as shirts from Liverano & Liverano and G.Inglese, knitwear from Scott & Charters and outwear from Vetra. For the accessories we can instead find everything from ties, pocket squares, leather goods, socks, umbrellas, shoes and much more. In this wide selection of accessories we are able to find brands such as their own private label, Drake’s, Rubinacci, Christian Kimber, 19 Andrea’s 47, Tie Your Tie and E.G Cappelli. This could possibly be the largest selection of high quality accessories that can be found in one place, it is a collection that few stores even gets close to in terms of variations and quality.
What makes Exquisite Trimmings even more interesting is their own private label which offers great quality accessories to affordable prices. Here we are able to find pocket squares and ties, starting at £35 for the pockets squares and £55 for the ties. We can find high quality prints from the world famous silk mecca, Macclesfield in England, that are only used by the best accessories manufacturers in the world. In addition to this we have some of the most affordable grenadine ties available to date that are priced at £55, and also cashmere ties for £85 (right now on sale for only £55). The ties are manufactured in Italy by a well known manufacturer and delivers great results with the majority of the ties sewn entirely by hand.
I decided to try Exquisite Trimmings bespoke service for ties, as I have been very pleased with all my other ties from the brand. I chose to try the bespoke service because of several reasons, but the main one was that I was able to choose fabric and my own preferred measurements. The bespoke service itself is simple to use with various of options to choose from. Let us walk through all the different options below to sort out any questions.
Step 1 – Fabric: First of all, head to the bespoke service page here. Pick you fabric of choice in list that will be visible on the page. I chose the solid cashmere fabric, a versatile choice that can be used for fall, winter and early spring.
Step 2 – Color: When you have chosen you fabric you will end up at the selection page as above. I decided to go for the navy cashmere fabric, a color that can be matched will almost everything in your wardrobe.
Step 3 – Folds: Next up is decide how many folds you want for your tie. 3-folded is included in the base price of the bespoke service, but if you want to add more it will cost extra. 3-fold is the most common choice, but 6 and 7-folded are often seen in ties made by the best manufacturers. More folds will use more fabric and it also require higher expertise by the tailor who is sewing the tie. I choose a 9-fold construction for my tie to try something new and exciting.
Step 4 – Length. One of the biggest benefits of the bespoke service is that you able to choose your length for your tie. The standard size is around 147 cm and could be too short or long for some people, which makes this a real savior. I chose to do my tie 148 cm, a length that I honestly can shorten in the future due to my high waisted trousers.
Step 5 – Width: Next up is the width of the tie. The most common choice nowadays is 8 cm, but I have started to like a bit wider ties due to my liking for wider lapels. I therefor decided to go for the 9 cm option.
Step 6 – Interlining: The interlining will have an impact of for the feeling and the size of the knot. Regular is the common choice among many manufactures but I personally prefer the light alternative. Due to that I chose the 9-fold construction, the extra folds will act as an interlining and no extra interlining will be added.
Step 7 – Tipping: The tipping will decide the formality of the tie, but is as always a personal choice. Ties are normally seen with the silk tipping choice, where self tipped comes in second place. My personally choice is without any doubt the untipped alternative, as this adds something extra to the tie.
Step 8 – Loop/Keeper: Pretty straight forward, do you want a tie keeper? Some prefer this, others do not. The keeper keeps the other end of the tie in place.
The delivery time for a bespoke tie will vary depending on many things but it normally takes 6-8 weeks. I ordered mine in in December and it ended up at my address in late March. It was a bit delayed because of the holidays in December which I do not mind at all.
The tie itself ended up exactly how I wanted and the 9-fold construction is absolutely gorgeous to look at when you open up the tie. As this is my first 9-fold tie, I do understand why these are made without any linings. There are more than enough fabric to cover up for the loss of the interlining and the knot will still end up nicely.
Overall I’m very pleased, both with the service from Exquisite Trimmings and with the end result. I can without any doubt recommend this service to anyone who wants to order a tie with your own personal choices.
After a short break on the blog, we head straight back into business with our weekly lookbook coverage. Today we will take a look at the latest collection from one of the oldest bespoke tailoring companies in the world, Gieves & Hawkes.
Gieves & Hawkes is a well-renowned bespoke tailor that are located the in the venerable 1 Savile Row, London founded in 1771. This makes Gieves and Hawkes one of the oldest continual bespoke tailoring companies in the world. Today the company still offer their bespoke and military tailoring service, but also a full ready to wear collection. For this spring and summer, we can find tailored clothing, shirts, accessories and a new and exiting capsule collaboration with Orlebar Brown.
The collection is photographed by Vincent Peters with the model Charlie France in front of the camera. We can see the aesthetics of the British tailoring combined with leisure wear worn in the tropical heat of a holiday in Havana. This is a different and interesting collection from a prestigious company as Gieves & Hawkes, but they deliver a good combination of casual and tailored garments without going too far from their heritage.
We continue to talk about persons who inspires me, both on a style and personality level. Today we will head to Berlin in Germany, where we will be able to find the humble gentleman Niels Holdorf.
I met Niels Holdorf for the first time during the summer edition of Pitti Uomo 86 in 2014. Niels was wearing a blue double breasted jacket combined with a pair of light grey trousers and subtle accessories, a sight for sore eyes among all the colorful peacocks at Pitti Uomo. It was at this moment where Niels style got my attention, and I clearly remember that he continued to deliver strong outfits during the whole fair. I’m sad to say that we did at most exchange one or two words during that edition of the fair, something that I regret today. I think that people understand when I make an excuse that it is often hard to hang out with all the interesting person that you meet at the Pitti Uomo fair. The time that you spend at the fair is not enough to do this and the days just runs past you. The evening’s are often fully booked by dinners and events, which also contributes to this.
I began instead to follow Niels through his Instagram where he posts daily outfits and accessories from his brand Shibumi. Shibumi is a brand that Niels founded together in 2012 with his partner in crime, Benedikt Fries. The brands main focus are accessories, with some gorgeous ties, pocket squares and braces. What I think make Shibumi stand out even more from the other accessories companies are due to their so called sen collections. Sen means selection or compilation in Japanese, and are small collections that they put together with some of the best manufacturers in the industry.
During the latest edition of Pitti Uomo that was hosted in January, I had the opportunity to meet Niels once again. This time I made contact with Niels in advance to make room in our calender’s to able to meet. And I regret that I waited so long to make the decision to spend more time with Niels. We had time to talk about his personality, where he finds his inspiration but also about the ongoing journey with Shibumi. What really hitted me is that Niels is such a humble and down to earth guy, a true gentleman but with a lot of humor. I truly admire people who have this kind of personality, people who are able to be professional and talk business without any fuzz. When this is taken cared of, they can instead let lose and be who they truly are and not pretend to be something that they are not. Niels is exactly like this and something that makes it natural to be friends and business partners at the same time.
Niels style is not something that stands out from the crowd, and I think this makes his style even more inspiring.
There is no news that my personal style reminds a lot of Niels, I like subtle and down to earth colors that creates a harmonized outfit. Niels shares the same philosophy and he is very seldom seen with something that that is colorful and having a lot of heavy patterns. He is often seen in perfectly cut suits and jackets that are made by some of the best tailors in the world such as Sartoria Corcos and Dalcuore. These garments are often worn in colors such as navy and brown and combined with accessories in earthy colors from Shibumi.
This is my words and thoughts about Niels Holdorf and I hope that I will be able to spend even more time with him during my future journeys. Niels knows how to dress and how to combine colors and patterns, and have a humble personality like few others have. The combination of these makes him a true style icon in my eyes.
We continue to look at the upcoming spring and summer collections and today we look at an all time favorite on To Quote. We head to London, and more precise No.3 Haberdasher Street, where will find the accessories specialist Drake’s.
Drake’s spring and summer 2016 takes us back to the 1950’s and brings us a collection full with washed out colors and textures. We can see different and unexpected color combinations such as pastel colored jackets in light blue combined with orange accessories. Linen dominates the tailored clothing, a material which creates comfortable and interesting textures for the shirts and jackets.
In the other end we have Drake’s more classic printed ties and scarves that are still the foundation for the collection. No other company has come close to deliver the same amount of interesting accessories as Drake’s, and the spring and summer collection does not disappoint. For this collection, Drake’s has also announced that they will do series of pocket squares in collaboration with Luke Edward Hall.
Drake’s succeeds to deliver a collection with garments that are both elegant and relaxed at the same time. The only thing we need now is the spring.
The full lookbook can be seen on Drake’s website here.
In the last part of the sale series we will talk about ties and my favorite picks from the season. We will talk about ties in different price ranges, with different details and in various of colors.
Part one for my favorites suits can be found here, and the second part for the jackets can instead be found here. The sale has been ongoing for a while so these products that I will share will not last for long, so do not wait too long to buy them if you find something interesting.
We cannot deny it anymore, the winter is here to stay. To be able to survive the winter you will need a good overcoat, beanie and scarf. We have already talked about my favorite overcoats and beanies and I think it is high time that we take a look at my favorites scarves.
A scarf can be a real savior when it is chilly outside, especially with a combination of the lower temperature and a windy day. What many do not think about is that you can control your temperature easily depending on which knot you are using for your scarf. A walk in city, walking in and out of stores will probably need a different knot compared to if you are taking a long walk in the country side. Other important details to think about when choosing a scarf are the length, choice of fabric and color. A longer scarf will give you the option to be able to make more advanced knots, something that will impact the isolation as already mentioned but also what kind of look you are after. I like when the scarf have a length around 180 cm, a length that is not too long or too short.
The thickness of the fabric will also make a difference as a lighter fabric will look more elegant, but lack of the isolation that a thicker fabric will offer. For winter I would personally choose a wool or cashmere fabric as these will keep you warm, not irritate your skin and are easy to find in various price ranges. Another fabric that has been seen much more lately is the alpaca, a softer and more luxurious alternative than the merino and sheep wool.
When it comes the choice of colors, I would personally start off with earthy and subtle colors such as navy, grey, brown and camel. These colors are the easiest to match with your other garments in you winter wardrobe such as your coats and trousers. I think it is better to start with these basic colors and instead add colorful scarves afterwards.
I have picked my ten favorites for the winter to help you gentlemen in the jungle of scarves.
Today we will take a break from the tailored clothing in Italy and will instead head to the beaches of Melbourne. It is here where we are able Christian Kimber and his inspiration from his debut collection, The Passport Collection.
The British born designer Christian Kimber recently delivered his debut collection and lookbook called “The Passport Collection”. For the lookbook he wanted the products to be shown in their natural environment and where the inspiration came from the very first begin. He went back to where it all began in the Jan Juc beach, with the photographer Sebastian Petrovski and model Tre Samuels an early morning to be able to catch the early sunrise and beach beautiful environment.
Every single product is inspired by his travels across the world, with each piece in the shoe range having a story behind it and explaining the choice of color and texture. For some of the sneakers you are able to see a hint of a wave in the pattern, a detail inspired by the waves from the beaches of Melbourne. This is just one of many examples of personal details that Christian has put into the products of the Passport collection. The attention to details are also shown in choosing the materials for the shoes and where and how they are manufactured. Each shoe is handmade in Spain or Italy by the finest natural materials and leather-lining for the best possible comfort. This is without any doubt a debut collection to be remembered from the talented designer Christian Kimber.
So you might see the hint of a wave in the pattern of a sneaker, or a nod to a wallpaper print in piping. Ultimately, my goal was to create such beautifully made shoes that they would work no matter what you wear. Handmade with love in Spain or Italy, each shoe is classically constructed and leather-lined for ultimate quality and comfort. I hope you enjoy wearing them as much as I did designing them – Christian Kimber