Marcus Malmborg – Made to measure with Eidos Napoli
I wrote a post about the customer clothier Marcus Malmborg earlier this fall and today it is time for the second part. For today’s post, we will look at the process behind ordering an Eidos made to measure suit through Marcus Malmborg. We will talk about fabrics, details, prices and much more.
In the first post about Marcus Malmborg, we talked about the history and the vision behind his self-titled company. As mentioned in the first article, I decided to order an Eidos made to measure suit through Marcus and today it is finally time to take a closer look at it. We will focus on the process to create an unique made to measure suit and the end result.
Marcus is actually the only person, except Eidos themselves, that have the opportunity to offer made to measure garments from the brand. It makes me proud to have such a personal clothier as Marcus to offer this service locally here in Stockholm. This adds even a more unique experience than other made to measure services are able to offer, where many retailers shares the same manufacturers but under different labels.
Eidos have chosen to use a simplified process for the made to measure service. Let us start with jackets where we have two different options to choose from. Here we are able to find two different models, the so called Ciro and Tenero. The Ciro is my personal favorite and probably the model that people recognize the most when someone mentions Eidos due to it characteristic details. This particular model features wider lapels measuring generous 10.5 cm and open quarters that takes inspiration from the Florentine tailoring.
If we instead look at the Tenero model, we are able to find slightly narrower lapels measuring 9.5 cm, a higher button stance and a silhouette that does not stand out as much as the Ciro. Both models features a full canvas construction, which means that the canvas covers the whole front and not only the upper part as half canvas do.
The trousers follows the same pattern and features two different choices, Lorenzo and Sal. The difference between these trousers are that the Lorenzo features double pleats, where the Sal trouser instead is flat-fronted. Both trousers are available in two waist heights, either the normal or high waisted. I would say that the normal waisted trousers would be the option that reminds what most people are used to wear or see in the stores. The high waisted option is at the other hand something that are you not able to find in any ready to wear trousers. These trousers features a waist height that sits at your bellow button, which is a lot higher compared to what most people are used to.
When it comes to details for the suiting, there are a small selection of choices such as choosing buttons, braces buttons, and what kind and type of lining. Eidos will not win in terms of the selection of details, but I believe that too many choices could make it even harder for the normal customer. In this case, I believe Eidos have chosen the right path with a smaller selection of details to choose from.
I decided to order a navy suit that would be wearable both for spring, summer and early fall. My choice fell on a navy hounds tooth pattern in a so called tropical wool fabric. This type of fabric is without any doubt one of the most usable fabrics for warmer climates when temperatures are reaching over 20 Celsius. It drapes great and wrinkles very little due to the structure in the fabric, which aslo makes this the ultimate travel companion.
Eidos starts at 14 000 SEK for the suits and coats, 11 000 SEK for jackets and 3500 SEK for trousers. Normally, a brand or tailor offers a starting price which most often only include a smaller selection of basic fabrics. What is unique with Eidos is that nearly 80% of the fabrics are included in the starting prices for the garments, which will make it easier for new customers to know what the end price will end up at.
As I’m already a big fan of Eidos, and have owned a few Ciro and Lorzeno jackets (previous model of Ciro) in my days, I picked the Ciro alternative for the jacket. I went for the Lorenzo trousers as I’m more comfortable to wear high waisted trousers nowadays. Due to my length at 1.87 m and longer legs, I really feel like high waisted trousers adds a great balance to my silhouette.
Last but not least, I picked a half lined jacket and brown Corozo buttons as a final touch to be able to wear it with most of the garments in the wardrobe. When all the choices are finished, a order is placed to Eidos factory in Italy. The delivery time is normally 6-8 weeks, and in my case I ordered the suit late in February and received the suit in the beginning of May, which means exactly as promised.
A first fitting was done to be able to see if any smaller adjustments were needed, and for my suit we choose to take adjust the back just a bit more and repressed the trousers for a more precise fit. The adjustments are made by one of the best tailors in Stockholm just to make sure that all the adjustments and details will be same or better than original.
And the result? Absolutely brilliant and this will without any doubt be an all time favorite in my wardrobe. The fit for both the jacket and trousers have a fuller silhouette, which adds up to a more balanced outfit in my opinion. This was something that I asked Marcus about during our first meeting when I tried out different sizes and he succeeded perfectly to deliver my vision.
To be able to find a tailor, person or custom clothier that can understand your vision, with the combination of one of your favorite brands, is in my eyes an unbeatable combination. I will for sure pay a visit to Marcus again, either to buy something from the ready to wear collection, or place another order for new a suit.. or maybe a coat for the winter?