Pelote – Part III – The Suit

During late last summer I chose to do a pair of made to measure trousers from the Malmö based company Pelote. I decided that I wanted to explore Pelote once again and see what they are capable to create. This resulted that I made an order for a suit with both classic and modern influences, and the time has come to see the result.

I have mentioned Pelote earlier a couple of times here on the blog. The first part of where you can read about the history of the company can be found here. If you are looking for the second part where I made a pair of made to measure trousers, it can be found here instead. For today we will talk about my latest creation with the company, a complete made to measure suit.

My intention was not create the perfect business suit, but instead something that I will be able to use at many different occasions. To be able to achieve this I put a lot of weight into the choice of fabric. My choice fell eventually on a navy 290 gr/m fabric with a subtle birdseye pattern from one of Pelote’s own fabric books Pelote Supérieur. This felt like a good choice as I also wanted to be able to wear the suit at as many seasons as possible. Something to think about when choosing a four season fabric is that many of the fabric options can easily look formal and lack of texture. Try to choose a fabric with some kind of texture to it, like the birdseye pattern as I chose.

58389f3c2d41fbb9e6114e2c2fc2c37f

Pelote Supérieur 290 gr/m birdseye fabric, 7495 SEK. My choice fell on the navy on the top of the photo.

The options for choosing fabrics are nearly endless and Pelote carries most of the fabric books that you can think of. Among the fabric books you can find common brands such as Vitale Barberis Canonico (VBC), Loro Piana, Holland & Sherry and Scabal, but also a great selection of fabrics under Pelote’s own private label. These fabrics are well selected from mills from all over the world but to an more affordable price. I highly recommend to take a look at these before looking at other fabrics as these ones could save you some money, but without compromising on the quality.

After that you have chosen your fabric, you will have the option to choose which details you would prefer for your suit. Pelote offers three different types of constructions for their jackets, the semi, half and full canvas. The semi canvas construction, which is included in the quoted price, features canvas for the lapels and and has a fused front. This is the most affordable option but it will not give the same mobility as the other options. Half canvas do instead offer a canvas construction that will be sewn at the shoulders and down the second button where you close the jacket. This option is more than enough for most people and will offer great mobility thanks to more lavish construction. If you choose this alternative it will be an extra cost of 1000 SEK as this is a more time consuming task for the tailor to construct.

The most luxurious construction that Pelote offers is the full canvas construction. What this means is that there is a canvas construction made from horse hair from the shoulders and all the way down to the bottom of the jacket. This is the most expensive and time consuming method a tailor can sew, but it will in end give the bearer of the jacket the best possible movement. An extra cost of 2000 SEK will be added if you choose this option, but I can assure you that it will be well spent money as the jacket will mold to your body over time. I choose to do the full canvas construction as I wanted the best possible mobility for my jacket. A pleasant surprise is that the button hole for the lapels will be hand sewn if you choose the full canvas construction, something that is often considered to be a sign of great craftsmanship.

RH-2

Wider notched lapels and the handmade milanese buttonhole.

A good armlength will show 1-2 cm of the shirt cuffs.

A good sleeve length will show approximately 1-2 cm of the shirt cuff.

One of Pelote’s strongest sides is that they offer a lot of changeable details, something that is quite unique in this price range. The foundation of the jacket will be Pelote’s own silhouette, but besides that you have almost all thinkable possibilities to change whatever you would like. A few of the options that you will have possibility to change are the size and which type of the lapels you want, amount of padding in the shoulders, button stance for the jacket, height of the waistband, side adjusters, pick-stitching, pockets and much more.

For my suit I did not want to have too many details and I ended up choosing a lightweight silhouette with unconstructed shoulders, wider notched lapels, high rise trousers with single pleats, with a slightly extended waistband and side adjusters. I also chose to do a subtle pick stitching and added cuffs for the hem of the trousers. I would in the end call most of the these details rather classic and not too modern. With my choice of fabric, full canvas construction and details, the price ended up at 9490 SEK.

RH-10

Back of the jacket and the natural shoulder.

RH-15

Side adjusters and slightly higher waistband.

A no break length for the trousers, a personal reference for my trousers today.

A no break length for the trousers, a personal reference for my trousers today.

Result and comments

Overall, I’m very pleased with both my suit and the service from Pelote. My measurements was taken by Gustav, the store manager of the store in Malmö, and he never disappoints. He opened the store after opening hours to able to take my measurements, as I was not able to make it in time during their ordinary opening hours. We sat down and talked about my expectations, looked at fabrics and discussed details for my suit without any kind of time pressure even that it was after business hours. After approximately four weeks I received an e-mail from Gustav that confirmed that my suit ready to be picked up. The timing was as promised and the end result met my exceptions.

I have now used my suit from Pelote for over two months, and I’m still very pleased with it. The only minor adjustment that I have done since I picked up the suit was to lengthen the trousers, something that is completely normal to do. Small details such as this is something that you will find out after wearing your garments for a while and will vary depending on many things such as choice of fabric.

My conclusion is that Pelote is a made to measure company that I can personally recommend to anyone who wants to do any kind of made to measure garments. Pelote has a wide selection of garments, fabrics and various of details to choose from, which means that everyone will be able to find something for their budget.

Pelote is also planning to open a second store in Gothenburg this spring, a store that I think have all the possibilities to become a favorite place to hang out for many people in Gothenburg for many years to come.

Complete price list:

Suits from 5495 SEK.

Jackets from 3895 SEK.

Coat from 4395 SEK.

Trousers from 1698 SEK.

Final result.

Final result.