Robin Pettersson Tailor – Part I

Today it is time for the first part of two where we look closer at the story and craftsmanship behind the young Swedish tailor Robin Pettersson. For the first part we will focus on Robin’s story, choice of details and the first fitting for my bespoke trousers.

Robin Pettersson founded the self-titled company in 2014 and started as many other young tailors to craft jackets and suits for himself, friends and family. Today we can find Robin in his own atelier in the central parts of Gothenburg located at Vallgatan 19. He is more than less self taught and have learned the craftsmanship the hard way by spending endless of hours cutting patterns, attaching shoulders and sewing button holes by hand. All sewing is done by Robin himself and is entirely done by hand which is both time consuming and and will also show the true skill of the tailor.

During Robin’s earlier days as a tailor I had the possibility to try his made to order service online. I choose to order a pair of trousers where both me and Robin was not convinced over the end result. The handmade details were spot on but the measurements did not end up as none of us had planned for. The reason for why this happened is that is very hard to achieve a good fit when a customer measures a garment of their own and forwards these measurements to the tailor. Today, Robin has discarded this service of this reason and he is now skilled enough to do fittings, both at his atelier in Gothenburg and trunkshows that he normally have once every other month in Stockholm. Pricing for his new bespoke service begins at 8500 SEK for suits, 6500 SEK for sport coats and 2000 SEK for trousers. All prices are excluding the fabric cost, which can vary depending if you choice a 100% wool fabric from Vitale Barberis Canonico or 100% cashmere fabric from Loro Piana.

Thanks to an growing expertise, Robin has been approved to do fittings for the Korean tailor B&Tailor, something that is truly unique as there are only two tailors in the whole world who have received this approval. B&Tailor is probably the most popular tailor in menswear today and are very active on all social media channels with inspiration and results of the customers bespoke garments. The quality and handwork of B&Tailors garments are on different level, which explains the much higher prices. Suits begins at 22 000 SEK, sport coats 17 000 SEK, trousers 5800 SEK and coats 24 000 SEK. All prices includes a fine choice of standard fabrics that will suit most people but if you want something else it will cost extra.

Robin also offers shirts from Italian Fralbo in two different options, in a simpler made to measure and full bespoke service. Pricing begins at 2000 SEK for the made to measure service which already includes various of handmade details. The options for the shirts are nearly endless, you have the possibility to choose from a wide selection of collars, change the collar height, add handsewn button holes, waterfall shoulder (spalla camicia) and much more.

I contacted Robin and booked a meeting with him for his trunkshow that he held in October in Stockholm. During the first meeting with Robin, we sat down and talked about my ideas regarding choice of garment, fabric and details. I choose to do a pair of trousers and wanted a brown flannel fabric that would be perfect for fall, winter and early spring. We found exactly the fabric that I had in mind and my choice fell on a brown 340 gram/m wool flannel from Holland & Sherry.

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My choice fell on a brown wool flannel from Holland & Sherry.

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953901 from Holland & Sherry’s flannel book.

One of the best things about a bespoke service is that you are practically able to choose whatever details you want. The body measurements that are taken for a bespoke service will also increase the chances to get the best possible fit. In my case I normally do made to measure trousers but this option is often limited to fewer measurements points and details.

I wanted a high rise for my trousers, something that is nearly impossible to find in normally shops today. My personal reference is that the trousers are most comfortable and best looking when they sit just below the belly button. Expect a high rise, I also choose to add an extended waistband, side adjusters, double reversed pleats and cuffs. I will talk and show more of the details in part two when the trousers are finished.

The normal lead time for a pair of bespoke trousers from Robin can vary depending on if you do your fittings in Gothenburg or at one of his trunkshows in Stockholm. If you choose to do them at his atelier in Gothenburg it will only take approximately one month, but this could depend on Robin’s working load. If you do them at one of his trunkshows in Stockholm you have to be prepared that it will take one or two months more. I took my measurements with Robin in October and the first fitting took place a month later in November. And I have to say that I was impressed over the result just after one fitting, we just had to do some minor changes for waist measurement and pinch them a bit in the back. This means that we will probably see the end result already in the second fitting that will take place January, this is something that you do not want to miss.

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Robin basting the waistband for the first fitting.

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The front of the trousers.

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Closeup for the front, here we can clearly see the higher rise and double reversed pleats.