Saman Amel – Part II
It is finally time to publish the second part for the article about Saman Amel. For this part we will focus about the details and the result for the Su Misura shirt that I choose to order late last year.
In the first article about Saman Amel we visited the atelier and took a closer look on the products that they offer. We also talked about the vision that the duo, Saman Amel and Dag Granath, has for the company. Today we will look closer at the details and result for the shirt and my thoughts about the whole process. There’s been a slight delay in publishing this article which is not Saman Amels fault but something that I will try to improve in the further for you readers, so please bear in mind that the timing that’s mentioned below is the true time for the process. One positive thing about the late article is that I had the opportunity to own this shirt for a long time, and can tell how it’s has been holding up after all these washes.
The first fitting took part in the middle of October last year, where Saman Amel himself took my body measurements for the shirt. Body measurements will ensure better conditions for the end results compared to the more common made to measure service, where you often try on an existing garment and change the measurements according to how the garment fits. Body measurements do however put higher demands on the person who’s taking your measurements, and this is because of the complexity without seeing an actual garment on the person.
The second fitting for the shirt took place in November, this is to make sure that the measurements are correct and if any adjustments are needed. In my case we needed to adjust the back and arms measurement because we had added too much fabric for these areas. I think the major reason for why this happened is that me and Saman didn’t have the same vision from the begin, something that’s only human to happen when it’s your first order. These parts of the shirt are easy to adjust and all adjustments are including in the original price. Saman noted the adjustments and took the shirt to his local tailor for adjustments, a well known and probably the best tailor in town according to myself. Knowing that Saman uses this tailor for adjustments makes me as a customer comfortable that the result will be as good as it possibly can. Any adjustments will be done to it’s original condition which means that my adjustments was sewn by hand, just as the original product.
In early December, about a week later, the shirt was ready for a third fitting to make sure that the adjustments had been successful. Saman did a great job with the adjustments and we both now agreed that this was fit I was looking for. These measurements are stored and can later be used for making a new shirt, which makes it very easy to order a new shirt when you’re happy with your measurements. This means that you just can choose a fabric and details for your shirt to place your order, and no further fittings is needed. A note is that it often takes one to three fittings before you and a tailor has found the best measurements for you.
I chose a thinner cotton fabric from Thomas Mason which has a light blue and white texture to it, a texture which I personally prefer compared to a plain colored fabric. A fabric a texture creates more life to the garment itself and that’s exactly what I was looking for. With the choice of fabric done we continued with the next choice, the collar. I wanted something out of the ordinary and I decided to go for a generous button-down collar, something that is more than less impossible to find on the read to wear products today. There’s a lot of different options to choose from at Saman Amel and most of the collars can also be adjusted for the height of the collar and the length for the collar points.
Saman Amel’s house style is Italian as we mentioned in the first article. What this means is that the silhouette and details offered for this service are handmade, giving every shirt a unique character. If you want a British silhouette, with machine sewn parts and stiffer collars I would recommend you to go another brand or tailor. In my case I wanted the Italian style and choose the pleated shoulder option, also known as the spalla camicia. I wanted this for the whole shirt which Saman Amel have the possibility to do for the shoulders, both on the sides and back but also for the cuffs.
In addition to all these options there’s details that’s always included in the final product. These details are the sign of the house style for the atelier, which includes hand-rolled and hand-stitched hem and edges, handmade button holes and reversible buttons for the cuffs which means that the cuffs can be turned into a french option whenever needed. This means that you have the possibility to use the mother of pearl buttons that’s already sewn on the shirt or switch to your own choice of cufflinks.
Since December there’s been a lot of changes for Saman Amel which includes new products in the product range, but also a move to a more spacious and central atelier at Kommendörsgatan 21 in Stockholm. A lot of improvements has been done for the production process and the delivery time will nowadays probably end up closer to four weeks for the shirt service. They launched a new pique shirt that’s offered both for their Su Misura service both also as a ready to wear option. A new collection of knitwear will also be launched for fall as ready to wear options, something that looks very interesting and which I gladly will show for my readers when released.
I must say that I’m very pleased how the shirt ended up, both when it comes to product but also the service from the duo at Saman Amel. The whole process from the first meeting to have the final shirt in my hands took about six weeks which I think is fine. I paid ~250€ for the shirt which I think is a fair price if you look at the actual quality and details of the product. I would actually say that this is best looking shirt that I’ve ever seen and owned, the details are absolutely stunning, it doesn’t matter if you look at the handmade buttonholes or the spalla camicia shoulder. You can clearly see on the photos that it has been worn a lot but it’s holding up very good. No loose buttons, not loose stitches, no discoloring after these six months of washes and ironing. I highly recommend everyone who like the Italian style and having a hard time to find the right options on the ready to wear market to try Saman Amel, I promise you that you will not be disappointed.