Saman Amel – Part I

Tailoring has a long tradition and known for its roots in the streets of Savile Row in London and the hometown of Neapolitan tailoring in the Naples. One of the main topics nowadays is that the older generation of tailors are on their way to pass away and that the next generation have a less interests to carry this unique knowledge further. Luckily there’s still hope out there and one of them is Saman Amel, a young tailor who runs his newly opened atelier in the central parts of Stockholm with a bright future ahead with his passionate company.

With the new shoowrom at Engelbreksgatan 29 in Stockholm, the duo Saman Amel and his partner Dag Granath have come a long way since the start in the late 2010.  Newley turned 21, Saman himself is a young entrepreneur with a education in tailoring with a backpack that holds many years of made to measure experience. This combined with a strong interest in tailored clothing and fashion was the foundation to start the self named company Saman Amel in 2010. Saman is the guy who’s the mastermind behind the clothing, the one who’s doing all the measurements with the clients and also hand sewing some of the garments. Later on his friend and colleague Dag Granath joined the team after they had been working together at the same Swedish fashion house for years. Dag is the art director for the company, he’s in other terms responsible for marketing, communications and arts.

What really stands out with this small company is the passion behind it. Both Saman and Dag’s vision is to offer the highest possible craftsmanship and quality no matter the costs for the specific item. The duo is not interested in offering the most affordable garments on the market, they want to offer products with various levels of craftsmanship and handwork and an uniquely produced garment for every single customer who enter their atelier. This means that the company do not offer any ready to wear collection but is instead only offering a made to measure service that will ensure that this is possible.

This service is called Su Misura and comes in a wide range of garments, it includes suits, jackets, coats, shirts, trousers and the foundation of the company, the ties. The ties are the true foundation of the company, this is what made Saman Amel the company they are today and really put them on the map. Every single tie is 100% handmade by Saman himself and takes roughly three hours to put together. The main tie collection is close to a bespoke service with the main difference that the fabric season orientated and well selected by the duo themselves for every new season. Expect the already selected fabric you have the option to choose the measurements for the ties and this includes the width and length, in other terms a fully customized service regarding the measurements and it often something that’s rather expensive at more established tie makers. If you won’t find any suitable fabric there’s a full bespoke service offered and this means that you can decided everything you possibly want, it could be the fabric, how much interlining it should be, personal initials and even the the shape of the tie. The bespoke ties starts at €120 and vary depending on the choice of fabric and details.

The Su Misura service is something that Saman Amel released earlier this fall and is available in two different lines, which is representing the level of the handwork on the garment. The entry-level begins at €1100 for suits and coats, €800 for jackets and €350 for a pair of trousers. For this price you will get a full canvas construction with the handwork at nearly 70%. More time consuming parts like the canvas is sewn by machine to make it a well balanced and affordable alternative. The other more luxurious line is almost fully handmade in the Naples and starts at €1800 and have everything you could ask for, it even offers hand stitched canvas that’s mostly only seen in bespoke. What this does is that it creates a floating canvas that will form itself after your body in the best possible way, it’s the best and most time consuming method offered on the market to date.

Our philosophy is, as always, that the product is supposed to act as an extension of yourself; not to in any way be of a limiting character. We look at fit, the choice of fabric and the details to reach a product for our customer to truly embrace and feel comfortable wearing at all occasions. – Saman Amel

A fact that shouldn’t be forgotten is that this is the entry prices and they will vary depending on your fabric of choice. Other selectable options will not affect the price and will be included from the beginning. There’s various of options to choose from but it includes for example different lapels, width for the lapels, shoulder construction, pockets, rise on the trousers, cuffs, pleats and what interlining that should be applied. Basically everything is possible in the range of their so called tailoring house style. Something that’s worth mentioning is that a house style is the main silhouette and construction of the garment itself. This means if you want a well constructed and British silhouette Saman Amel is not the right choice of yours and this is something a good tailor such as Saman will agree on when you’re explaining what your vision is regarding the garment. If you want a light and nearly completely handmade construction with Neapolitan details, Saman Amel will be the right choice for you.

And last but not least we have the handmade Su Misura shirts. The shirts are fully handmade and if you want a classic English shirt with machine stitching you will have to look elsewhere. This is a shirt with all the traditional details from the Neapolitan school which features a completely handmade construction and details such as pick stitching in downright every single part of the shirt, a true waterfall shoulder which is also known as the spalla camicia shoulder, handmade buttonholes with hand sewn buttons, hand-rolled edges and much more. Pricing for the shirts begins at €250 but will also vary depending on the choice of fabric like the other garments.

Saman Amel’s passion really caught my interest and I decided to do two pairs of shirts that will be featured on the blog in the near future. This will include a full review of the shirts with all the details and the final results of the fit. Stay tuned for part two, this is something that you don’t want to miss.

Layering done right by Saman Amel.

Layering done right by Saman Amel.

Jacket in navy wool, a true wardrobe classic.

Jacket in navy wool styled with one of the new 8-folded ties.

A beautiful spalla camicia.

A beautiful spalla camicia (also in header).

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The small stitches is a sign of the hand sewn lapels and also the hand attached collar that optimizes the distribution of fabric to ensure the perfect fit for the collar.

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Handmade buttonholes.

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Saman Amel.

Pick stitching for one of the coats.

Pick stitching for one of the coats.

Unconstructed overcoat in camel Loro Piana fabric.

Unconstructed overcoat in camel colored Loro Piana fabric.

The unconstructed coat shoulder, a signature style by the atelier.

The unconstructed coat shoulder, a signature style by the atelier.

Beautiful lapel roll.

Beautiful lapel roll.

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Belt is one of many selectable details for the coats.

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Horn buttons.

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Slightly tilted patch pockets.

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A few ties from the collection.